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SWAPS OR SALE ($8500 o.n.o)

Contact: PM or sms/call 0403 724 341

  • red top sr20det
  • garret 25/60 turbo- done less than 500kms
  • isc front mount intercooler
  • pod filter
  • bigger nissan radiator
  • battery re located to boot
  • remapped ecu done by Jeff from the speed lab
  • bosch 040 fuel pump
  • stainless frontpipe going into a straight through 3 inch system with de cat and cannon style muffler (so loud)
  • tein coilovers all round
  • tein caster rods
  • solid metal subframe bushes
  • standard sr box with heavy duty clutch,feels real kicky so might be a drift clutch
  • cusco 2 way l.s.d
  • jus been repsrayed in white and black,drift panda style.........paint peel in some spots but still looks good for a drift car
  • bn stylish front bar
  • wing taken off
  • all striped out except for drivers bucket seat and dash
  • greddy boost gauge
  • Red Recaro bucket seat
  • hand brake modified to suit drift......cheap style
  • shitty 15's on the front
  • r33 na's on the rear

Car made 190rwkw on 13 psi

Pics:

DSC02082.jpg

P1020325.jpg

P1020326.jpg

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https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/294940-sa-track-only-onevia/
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    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
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    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
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