Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok here is the problem, I can't seem to get my car to idle unless I pull the big vacuum line off that goes to the break booster. If I leave it on and try to start the car it just won't turn over. The air fuel ratio while it's cranking with no vacuum leak is like 10ish, with it off it's around 14ish and when it fires up it's at 16ish. So when I fire it up with the vacuum leak that car will ilde high but it will stay running until I seal up the leak then the airfuel ratio shoots to the 10's and the car stalls out. I tried to unplug the maf to get it to idle and it just won't do it. Checked the ecu for codes but none all is good. I thought maybe my injectors were dirty and they were a little from the report I got back after I had them cleaned and balanced. I'm running 824cc Sard injectors with a Nistune Ecu and Denso 280lph fuel pump. I also reprogrammed my nistune and tried it another Rb20 and that car fired up like normal. I'm at a very big loss because I have never seen this before.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/294968-rb20det-idle-problems/
Share on other sites

Mate i had this exact same problem with my wifes car recently and it took me a few days to nut it out.

After changing ecu, plugs, coilpacks, afm, fuel pump, checked electrical and intercooler plumbing but nup nothing. But after the few days of swearing and cursing i found it.

It ended up being the intake pipe that goes from the AFM to the turbo. It had wriggled off the front of the turbo and was just sitting in front of it. I couldnt bloody tell because as most know, the intercooler piping covers alot of the turbo so you cant visualy see it unless you look for it.

With the intake wriggling off the front of the turbo, it was sucking air in which was stuffing the fuel mixture ratio hence the reason why it wouldnt idle and it couldnt make boost.

Put it back on and now shes all sweat. I would also check the plumb back system if you have it as it may be sucking air from there somewere too.

Im not sure if this is going to solve your problem but check it out. Anything is possible. Hope you have some luck. Its a very annoying problem to find.

Mate i had this exact same problem with my wifes car recently and it took me a few days to nut it out.

After changing ecu, plugs, coilpacks, afm, fuel pump, checked electrical and intercooler plumbing but nup nothing. But after the few days of swearing and cursing i found it.

It ended up being the intake pipe that goes from the AFM to the turbo. It had wriggled off the front of the turbo and was just sitting in front of it. I couldnt bloody tell because as most know, the intercooler piping covers alot of the turbo so you cant visualy see it unless you look for it.

With the intake wriggling off the front of the turbo, it was sucking air in which was stuffing the fuel mixture ratio hence the reason why it wouldnt idle and it couldnt make boost.

Put it back on and now shes all sweat. I would also check the plumb back system if you have it as it may be sucking air from there somewere too.

Im not sure if this is going to solve your problem but check it out. Anything is possible. Hope you have some luck. Its a very annoying problem to find.

I'm running a blow through setup on my car. P1010630.jpg

P1010737-1.jpg

I did have to take my Rips manifold off to change my thermostat and thats when this all started to happen. I took it off again and didn't see anything and installed a new gasket. I'm going to start it again tomorrow and spay some brake cleaner around the flange to see if the idle changes might be a leak or something.

What fuel pressure are you running?

Considering that you are running injectors probably 4x standard flow rate, I'm surprised it runs at all. You have a programmable ECU - trim some fuel out of it at 'start' and 'idle'.

What fuel pressure are you running?

Considering that you are running injectors probably 4x standard flow rate, I'm surprised it runs at all. You have a programmable ECU - trim some fuel out of it at 'start' and 'idle'.

I have it set to 40psi without the vacuum line. Nistune realtime board for adjustment.

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
    • Nice car! I’m glad folks in the US have gotten past the FnF and are buying real cool cars like the 260RS I was with a bunch of mates in Portland about a year ago and spotted a green Stagea (just a regular 2.5T AWD) parked about 2 blocks away and they were like “a what?” So I made a bet with them for a round of beers and said “ok one of you run down there and tell me if the steering wheel is on the correct side” 5 mins later the American comes trudging back up the hill and goes “he’s right guys. Ok what beer do you want?”
    • Should replace OR drop the tank, give it's good clean. Might be worth replacing that entire fuel level/pump/cradle thing with this: https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/fpg-s13-180sx-r32gtst-single-pump-hanger-kit-billet-hat-6-v3-fpg-089?gQT=2  
    • Thank you so much for the help
×
×
  • Create New...