Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey ppls

Well, because there was no interest in the meet last night I decided to reset my engine computer.

I pulled the positive lead off the battery (whilst the alarm went insane) and pumped the brake, turned on the lights etc etc.

Put the lead back on, let car sit for a while, then started it, let it idle and drove off to teach the thing a lesson or two!

Anyway, warmed it up and drove onto the Eastern Freeway from Springvale road, and opened up third gear.

Engine running fine, but when I reached 110, the steering wheel began to turn to the left, whilst the car stayed straight. going through to 130 odd, the wheel got further around until I backed off, and the wheel returned to straight by the time I reached 100 again.

I tried this again a couple of times with the same result.

This worried me somewhat! I was going along the freeway, obviously rear wheel steering. I gave it a couple of swerves and accelerated again to see if I could identify anything mechanically that was flopping about, but the same gradual turn of the wheel from about 100 to 130 (as fast as I wanted to considering).

Has this happened to anybody else, and what was it?

On the drive to work this morning (4 minutes) I couldn't really get the speed up to see if it was still happening.

Please help......

BASS OUT

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/29511-worrying-problem/
Share on other sites

Wow, it doesn't know how fast you're going so it decides to steer at random intervals! Nice safety measure there Nissan! :D

The first thing I would do is check the wiring loom connection to the ECU in the kick panel and also the connection to the HICAS controller under the rear parcel shelf. Maybe one of them is a bit loose and not making full contact.

I don't think it's related to your d/c of the battery though, it sounds like coincidence.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/29511-worrying-problem/#findComment-602895
Share on other sites

I did the full diags thing, steering wheel and brake pedal and then back and forwards for 5 meters or so.

Then yeah, I sat there stopped whilst the rear wheels squirmed from side to side for a while.

Should I have been moving? Cos if I was I would be rear wheels steering up the road.....

BASS OOUT

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/29511-worrying-problem/#findComment-602967
Share on other sites

Now this is just a thought but, when u did reset the cpu were the front wheels straight and aligned? Because I heard some thing about the HICAS caliberating at around 100-130? so it could be off because of the difference in the angles of the wheels front to back. Just a thought really

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/29511-worrying-problem/#findComment-603171
Share on other sites

Well, it's interested that you said that, because I did actually reset the computer when the wheels were turned into my garage (whilst the car was in the drive)

I will reset the computer again now, and gauge the effect when I drive down the freeway again tonight.

Good Thought

BASS OUT

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/29511-worrying-problem/#findComment-603203
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Is anyone running these axles? R32, R33, R34 GTR front Axles. shafts itself rated 950hp. Suit all RB26 engines Croydon, Melbourne, Victoria Would be nice to pay half the cost of Driveshaft Shop Axles. I'm building an AWD S13 Coupe that is very low ride height (high cv angle) compared to stock R32. Has an RB30 with appx 600whp. Just looking for feedback. Thanks, Josh- https://www.instagram.com/feng_shui_garage/
    • Been a long time since r31 got some love, my brother dropped a shitbox ls1 crapadore in my lap to fix up.  Put a wiper motor in as the flooded one was no longer alive.  got windscreen wipers now. Time to clean respray and install back in the titanic  IMG_0505.mov
    • Nah its a server spammer thing  Although, now that I manually approve all the accounts I can probably loosen up some of the restrictions.  
    • Thread bump, again! Although, no bad news this time. Posting for the sake of possible root cause. Basically, I rebuilt it (mostly stock), installed Haltech + sensors, had it running fine on new ECU.  Still not really understanding why it cracked pistons last time. Got to tuners, and while checking timing, noticed +-10deg of timing scatter while revving. Changed CAS, and it was rock solid. While not definitive, can't imagine seeing 20+ psi with that amount of scatter would be a good thing. Also glad I found something.   Bit more of a run down; Carried out a stock rebuild, a set of stock pistons, out of a spare bottom end. Everything stock apart from head studs and oil restrictors. (so I can pretend I didn't let the Nissan out, ha.) Armed with the measuring gear and FSM, set about doing overhaul. Oil restrictors as per oil control thread for a RB25, stock oil pump, drifting. Head drain/vent from rear of head, to passenger side of sump above oil level. Two dash 10 vent lines from drivers side of sump (unused atm) Hi octane style cam cover breather kit Splash covers over last 2 cam caps. Both breather lines from cam covers to vented to atmosphere catch can, not plumbed back into sump (wanted to see what it was actually breathing). Got it run in (did about a 1000km) no to low boost scenario, As I had questions over old ECU setup. Installed haltech +sensors for flex Retune on E85 (finding CAS Issue along the way), made 300rwkw at 20psi, out of wastegate. Did a drift day the next day (yes, it was a big weekend!) and was checking catch can throughout the day, ZERO blowby. I mean nothing. Lines from cam covers are not even wet. Done a bunch of street driving, spirited and catch can is still dry. Early days I guess, but pretty happy so far. Also now run 10w60, up from the 10w40 that I used to run. Oil pressure is significantly better, especially when hot (as you would expect)      
×
×
  • Create New...