Jump to content
SAU Community

Bringing An Import From Over East

Sneakyazn

By Sneakyazn,
in Western Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

BANGN Experienced

BANGN

Posted
Posted (edited)

certainly does!

Technically you are not aloud to drive the car once it hits WA Soil without a permit, Its a load of bollocks imo.. I have always just driven the car.. i mean ffs its got plates on it!

you will be required to take it over the pits. Unless its mickey mouse they will most defiantly find something that needs doing on it before it can be licenced, you will also need to pay the vehicle transfer stamp duty, 6 months rego and the pit inspection at the same time if you get it over in one shot.

what are you buying?

Edited by BANGN
Sneakyazn Enthusiast

Sneakyazn

Posted
  • Author
Posted
certainly does!

Technically you are not aloud to drive the car once it hits WA Soil without a permit, Its a load of bollocks imo.. I have always just driven the car.. i mean ffs its got plates on it!

you will be required to take it over the pits. Unless its mickey mouse they will most defiantly find something that needs doing on it before it can be licenced, you will also need to pay the vehicle transfer stamp duty, 6 months rego and the pit inspection at the same time if you get it over in one shot.

what are you buying?

but i mean cutting to the chase, yah bring it all over in one shot, put it over the pits pay yah rego stamp duty an get fixed whatever they say to get fixed, other then that you dont have to pay for any importing fee's or anything silly like that do you?

and as for what im buying well, its a toss up between a soarer or s15 and having a look at em they are deff cheaper from over east, at the moment i got a 33 but mmmm yea looking for somethin different but yea just needing to know the process before i have my mind set in stone about a particular car an then finding out its gonna be impossible to get it over here, i mean pits is fine they tell yah u what u need 2 get fixed, u fix it an take it over but umm yea.

lcy Rising Star

lcy

Posted
Posted

Its definitely cheaper from eastern states.

BUT if the car is modded, you still have to get it back to stock before you can get it thru the pits.

If you calculate the labour to take the aftermarket part out then put in stock parts(purchasing stock parts?) and fit it back aftermarket parts in, you still come back to the same lump sum as getting a car locally.

One of my mate decided to do this, huge problem was getting the parts out. Did all the right way (He did himself to save money). When taking out parts, he broke the nuts. Then he couldnt drive the car. Got it towed to a workshop and pay alot more to get it done.

End of the day, its still up to you, if you got the time and patience go ahead! :cool:

Good luck.

Sneakyazn Enthusiast

Sneakyazn

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Its definitely cheaper from eastern states.

BUT if the car is modded, you still have to get it back to stock before you can get it thru the pits.

If you calculate the labour to take the aftermarket part out then put in stock parts(purchasing stock parts?) and fit it back aftermarket parts in, you still come back to the same lump sum as getting a car locally.

One of my mate decided to do this, huge problem was getting the parts out. Did all the right way (He did himself to save money). When taking out parts, he broke the nuts. Then he couldnt drive the car. Got it towed to a workshop and pay alot more to get it done.

End of the day, its still up to you, if you got the time and patience go ahead! :cool:

Good luck.

true true, cheers for the input.

DTSNR32 Community Regular

DTSNR32

Posted
Posted

I picked up my 32 from the eastern states at the start of the year. Didnt have to many problems with pit or anything... Drove it around for months on vic plates even got pulled over and cops didnt think twice. There were no extra fees or anything just look at the car as it has to go over the pits.

Ashy Larry Grand Master

Ashy Larry

Posted
Posted

As said above,

This has been covered many times before.

Vehicle with other states plates on it can IIRC be driven for 3 months legally prior to having its plates switched over to WA.

Thread Closed

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • gifted1
      Will r33 gtr front reo fit on r33 gtst series 1?

      By gifted1 · Posted

      *monitoring this thread*  😎
    • PranK
      New lightweight, square wheel/tyre combo for the E90

      By PranK · Posted

      Ok cool, because I do have some OEM BMW options for light(er) wheels. 17x8.5 M Sport wheels are 11kg and I could put 255's on them. Maybe that's an initial test.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      So, in the effort of pulling apart airboxes and testing enclosures to see if this aids in MAP loss at WOT I noticed: 1) The ducts up the OEM intercooler holes from the front bar help IAT drastically, whether the pod is shielded from the engine bay by an airbox missing a lid, or an airbox WITH a lid. Plus you get more induction sound without the lid. Having half the airbox (with no lid) acting as a barrier to the headers seems to help. 2) For shits and giggles I checked the TB. This was full pedal travel. This is actually full travel of the TB. Photos aren't perfect, but there was definitely an amount of play in it and it wasn't against the stop. After much swearing and adjusting the pedal, I realised that the cable is actually too long for the skyline pedal travel to fully articulate it. Having the pedal adjusted so WOT was actually hard open on WOT resulted in an idle of 3500rpm. As an aside, this was also the TPS registering at 3.1%. I removed the above to give the pedal enough travel to actually fully open the TB. I now get a satisfying 'thonk' on full open and full closed which you can hear pumping the pedal as it hits the TB stops (with the bonnet open and intake back on). Luckily for me, the screw screws into a raised metal boss under this plastic piece that is now acting as the new throttle stop. I've gained about 20mm (ish) of pedal travel and I can move it maybe a mm or two post open-thonk before it's hard against the stop. After all of this I did a bit of road tuning because a 102MM throttle is sensitive. The difference between holding an 950rpm idle and instantly stalling is about 0.4% of TPS movement. Will that help? I suppose it can't hurt. I set 'closed' point back to where it was, I can definitely feel the extra pedal travel that is needed to actually open the TB fully. But this morning I dropped the car off at Paint Jail again, so who knows when this will re-eventuate out to see if it helps with the top of the dyno hitting a ceiling.
    • Kinkstaah
      Looking for someone with a R34 front bar

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Take heart that everyone else seems to have found a way. The OEM S1 indicators do slot in pretty firmly. It may simply be a case of having them sit slightly looser and nobody actually ever noticed this when attempting to remove a indicator from a JSAI bar :p
    • GTSBoy
      34 de+t conversion using s2 stagea automatic transmission, engine harness and ecu

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If the original NA ECU has a separate TCU then you are going to need to reroute wires that used to run between the trans and the TCU to the appropriate (1 to 1 equivalent) pins on the ECU. Other than that, it should work. Look up posts by @Kinkstaah on the subject.
×
×
  • Create New...