Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys i crashed my r33 drift car. im stripping it but i have decided to keep the engine and gear box to put in a 180sx. funds are low so it wont be till mid next year before i get the new car up and running. the motor and gear box are out of the car sitting on my garage floor covered up and have been for about 3 months now. MY question is what should i do to protect the engine while it sits for so long to make sure its all good when i finally get it going again? thanx guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/295354-storing-an-engine/
Share on other sites

Put the engine on an engine stand.

Leave oil in the sump. Turn it on it's side once a week to get the oil to soak up to the pistons and pins, straighten it up. Spray 2 seconds of WD40 into each spark plug hole and replace the spark plug. Rotate the engine 3 times, once a week after you have done that.

Cover up the intake pipe when done. Glad wrap and electrical tape will do. Don't shove rags in there as they tend to get forgotten about and can get sucked in later.

The WD40 will stop the rings from binding and rotating it will keep them from sitting in the one position in the bore

None of this is necessary but will ensure it stays lubed and internally rust free and smoothly operating for a long time.

Yer I don't know how you plan to do an RB25 conversion in a 180sx if you can't crank an engine over by hand...

1. Go get a nice torquey ratchet

2. Stick it on the bottom crank pulley

3. Elbow grease

Steves got a point. good way to find out the answer to a question is to ask.. The bolt through the centre of the balancer, turn that sucka. this turns the crank around which will turn everything else connected to it. Had your weetbixs?

If that were to happen, then there is another problem. There shouldn't be enough slack to do that

no not necessarily, iv seen it happen on cars that havnt even done there 100000kms timing belt change. its one of the main rules your taught when becoming a qualified mechanic. the engine is designed to turn one way, not both.

Edited by TRB-001
no not necessarily, iv seen it happen on cars that havnt even done there 100000kms timing belt change. its one of the main rules your taught when becoming a qualified mechanic. the engine is designed to turn one way, not both.

If it has slack to slip on the crank when turning anti clockwise, then what do you think happens when you turn the belt clockwise? The slack moves to the other side. Therefore, it would be far too loose.

Yes the 'engine' is designed to rotate one way but no the belt is not. The belt has a rounded tooth design and it doesn't matter which way you rotate it, it will have equal possibility of slipping either way.

Also the tension on the belt does not change, if you rotate it clockwise, the tension is on the idler side, if you rotate it anti-clockwise, the exact same tension is on the tensioner side.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dredgggggeeee time; I have recently finally started driving the car. It sat for so long that the fuel tank gave birth to rust sludge and blocked my lift pump sock and one of my walbro 460's and left grime, rust chunks and muck all through the surge tank and system. I decided to commit and pull the trigger on an oem r32 gtr fuel tank and Frenchys twin 460 / sender / surge tank hanger combo and all new larger lines and fittings etc, also boost doc heater hose kit / new heater core and a heap of other bits and shits like wideband sensor installed in the dump and Syltech iacv + lines and all wired and added to current tune. now having lightly driven it a couple times without issue, I can happily report on the hta3076 in its current tune. still no boost control switched on, 20psi gate springs, car makes 22psi at 3200rpm in 6th gear with 30-50% TPS from cruise at 100kmh. Going by the old graph, this means it should be making 300-325whp at the same numbers above. Very very responsive setup under true road driving loads. all that's left for the build is body loom + PDM, finish the remote aircon setup, install carbon fibre parts and go for full tune and 30psi. the 315 rear tyres are now performing like they're 195's, wheel spin in any gear at almost any rpm, whereas my previous setup hooked up in 3rd no issue, albeit Nt01's back then / RB25 5spd vs (new) old date r888r's Z34 6spd now, + obviously all the support upgrades I listed in the quoted post above. car sits at 1-3psi on cruise at 100kmh, expectations totally exceeded and I'm beyond stoked with all this so far. IMG_4848.mov
    • I've also been eyeing their rear axles for my car. I purchased seat mounts from them about 7 years ago and they were hot garbage so I've been a little wary about purchasing them. With that being said, please buy them and get back to us haha. 
    • Can a moderator please move this into the right category.. I've accidently put this into racing build thread 🤦🏽‍♂️
×
×
  • Create New...