Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys i recently bought my R33 GTR, got it all serviced and so forth. The guys where i get it done said i need new rotors and pads.

They told me its going to be about $1200 for the front, it seems abit too much i reckon or am i being abit tight?

Does anyone have any suggestions to where i should go as im willing to pay around the $500 to $800 mark. Would this be suffice to get the front back to a good breaking capacity?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/295573-brake-dilemma/
Share on other sites

depends what rotors and pads they quoted you for $1200 and which workshop quoted you...

ok just re-read the thread and it said that $1200 was for the front? rather overpriced imho

brembo make great calipers but the rotors are way overpriced.

you can get slotted RDA rotors, front and rear for around $380 delivered (yes, both pairs) and front and rear QFM pads from $160 to $360 depending on street or track or competition

And it'll take around 1 hour to change the rotors and brakes and probably 1 hour to bleed the hydraulics and bed the brakes in for you.... thats around $180-$200 from most workshops... then you got probably just under $50 of brake fluid, motul is recommended

Call road and track (number is in my sig) and see if you can get Gil to give you a quote on labour, I'm sure he can better that other workshop..

Speak to Rianto (rs73) in this thread (http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rda-Rotors-and-Ebc-Pads-Gro-t282829.html&hl=rda+group+buy) in regards to the Rotors and this thread for the Brake pads ;

(http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Qfm-High-Performance-Brak-t295467.html&hl=qfm+pads)

Should be done for around the $900 mark with good pads and rotors (and those two are my own personal choice, do your own personal research before choosing brands as you can go more expensive or cheaper if you wish)

-D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/295573-brake-dilemma/#findComment-4926916
Share on other sites

Cool thanks Dohmar. My mates a mechanic so i can get the parts and we will fit them together. should be a good learning experience. thanks for your help.

my pleasure. it wont be a problem if ur mate is a mechanic. sled and lukeenr34 did my last rotor and brake change, and tbh they didnt even need to disconnect the calipers so I didnt need to bleed the system (tho that could be a good idea)

Now u got a skyline, make sure u check all the forum threads, there is a vast amount of info and many group buys happening that really help us all save a lot of coin

-D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/295573-brake-dilemma/#findComment-4926958
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks Duncan, that's the best info I've read. Furthermore after learning about the PCM programming side controlling the factory boost solenoid, the purpose of the solenoid is to "bleed" boost when pin 25 is earthed, thus allowing spring pressure in the wastegate actuator to overcome diaphragm boost pressure, thus closing or reducing the position of the wastegate flap creating more boost as the turbo is able to spin faster. It's pretty cool to see a designated Pill to do exactly this, would have liked to have seen it with a tiny filter over the end for those moments in vacuum.  The constant bleed pill has now been removed completely from the system and solenoid boost control has been restored once again.   Case closed 😂
    • The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.
    • Manual boost controllers (where a little of the boost was bled off) were quite common back in the day, because they were cheap and easy. Generally they had a manual adjustment screw rather than being fixed like yours. Down side is they always bleed boost, not just when you want them to so an electronic boost controller that uses a solenoid will have less lag.
    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
    • Legend. I ended up finding the facebook account of the owner of the first car i sent but sadly he deactivated the account. I think you’re right in saying it’s some sort of well done custom job. Really appreciate your help anyways.
×
×
  • Create New...