Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys and Girls,

Just recently purchased a R34 4 door from auction in Adelaide.

Just curious if the previous owner is on here, as i wouldnt mind some details on the car.

Description.

Silver R34 4 Door

Heavyly burnt. Front to rear

RB25 neo, 5 Speed

17x8 and 17x9 AVS wheels

3 or possibly 3.5inch stainless catback.

The rest of the car is pretty well stock.

Anyone know of the owner? or if your on here, would be great to have a talk with ya.

Cheers Dan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/295886-previous-owner-burnt-r34-4-door/
Share on other sites

Also interested.

Between $1000 and $1500. Yea that sounds stupid just say actual cost but id rather not. but its between those figures.

As for the PM i got regarding the Neo turbo, i dont have 10 psosts and cant reply. I have removed it, has minimal shaft play and all feels good, when i inspected the impeller it looks like 1 of the blades is slightly distorted, i will look again, and possibally send it off to be checked by a specialist and or have a new impeller put on it.

Looking around $450 has actuator and elbow.

hmm how much would u want for the shell? so no engine, gearbox etc

The shell is badly burnt. not worth re using, will be scrapped.

The box is going behind my RB20 in my r31.

The motor has had the engine cover melted. yet to look under it. will be a good head, cams and block. so perfect if some blows a neo up and needs a short motor, or has a heavily modified one and wants to just bolt their aftermarket items on

don't know how hot it got, but goodluck prying the head off the block......I've lifted a whole car in the air with big block & tackle trying to lift an alloy head off a cast block (also in a fire) many years ago.......smashed it off in the end and stuffed the block in the process :happy:

don't know how hot it got, but goodluck prying the head off the block......I've lifted a whole car in the air with big block & tackle trying to lift an alloy head off a cast block (also in a fire) many years ago.......smashed it off in the end and stuffed the block in the process

Cheers for the hinter.

Dont think its been hot enough to cause that sort of extreme. but ill see

The shell is badly burnt. not worth re using, will be scrapped.

The box is going behind my RB20 in my r31.

The motor has had the engine cover melted. yet to look under it. will be a good head, cams and block. so perfect if some blows a neo up and needs a short motor, or has a heavily modified one and wants to just bolt their aftermarket items on

surely the fire wasnt hot enough to warp and twist the chassis? stripping it back to chassis and rebuilding the entire thing from scratch should still be viable (unless the heat munted the metal)

-D

don't know how hot it got, but goodluck prying the head off the block......I've lifted a whole car in the air with big block & tackle trying to lift an alloy head off a cast block (also in a fire) many years ago.......smashed it off in the end and stuffed the block in the process :P

yeah, getting an alloy head of a cast block after a blown head gasket is hard enough, let alone a fire

not worth it Dohmar, might as well scrap it and put the parts into an already half finished 33. youd never get the burnt smell out of the car

+1

About the only thing I could think of is if you had a track/drift car you totalled and needed a new shell...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
    • Well they got my money but they are not getting my gearbox ! 
    • It's needed for rolling idle up, and I think it is a decider on VCT also.
    • I mean, not really. Link ECU's can absolutely still have errors from the ECU thinking it's getting a sensor it's not expecting. I would imagine the speed at the ECU level in Nistune does absolutely nothing anyway? I assume the ECU does not do any fancy TC stuff with regards to front+rear wheel speed or anything of that like anyway. Someone who uses Nistune may be more fluent in it. 
×
×
  • Create New...