Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well i finally picked up my rs4s :)

and i'm really happy

just a quick question about what fuel to run it on, i know 99% of imports like to run on 98 but under the bonnet i found this sticker (pic attached)

at the bottom it basically says 91-93 ron fuel

is that right? or is jap 91 ron different to aus 91 ron?

i intend to run premium but i will be going to tas for uni for 8 months and its hard to find 98 unless you are in a decent sized town

if someone can clear it up it would be awesome

Thanks,

Tom

post-51118-1257995820_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/295974-fuel-question/
Share on other sites

I was gonna suggest at first that maybe that Japan uses the average of RON/MON like America does:

(ever notice how Americans rate their octane ratings so much lower? ... this is why ...)

In most countries (including all of Europe and Australia) the 'headline' octane that would be shown on the pump is the RON: but in the United States and some other countries the headline number is the average of the RON and the MON, sometimes called the "roaDOctane Number" or DON, or (R+M)/2. Because of the 10 point difference noted above this means that the octane in the United States will be about 5 points lower than the same fuel elsewhere: 87 octane fuel, the "normal" gasoline in the US and Canada, would be 92 in Europe.

.. however, further reading suggests that Japan use the same RON fuel rating methodology as Australia/Europe/etc .. hrmm .. there goes that theory... I got no idea. I wouldn't run my import on anything less than 98RON.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/295974-fuel-question/#findComment-4932685
Share on other sites

Part of compliance is "Fit Tune up Label" mate :happy:

'

so ignore it and run 98? or if that has been fitted maybe it has been tuned for 91-93?

:S

its got bp ultimate in it cos that was my first reaction (i've had a couple of imports b4)

might reset the ecu and see how it goes

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/295974-fuel-question/#findComment-4933305
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, this shouldn't be such a mission, but there were a few tricks so I thought I'd post up a DIY for it. This was on a Q50 Red Sport but I doubt any other V37 model is very different (maybe just less steps for the intake heat exchanger hoses) I pulled the radiator out to flush it because the car was running hot at the track, but obviously the same steps apply for changing a radiator for any reason including an upgrade. If you are removing the radiator, you of course need to drain and refill, so have 5+ litres of blue coolant ready. You don't need to drain the intake heat exchanger to remove the radiator but depending on your plans you may need a couple of litres for that as well. You will also need something to deal with the auto transmission lines, I used 2x 8mm rubber caps on the radiator side, and a short length of 8mm pipe on the car side.....unless you can block these lines quickly you will loose AT fluid and it may be enough to hurt the transmission if you don't refill it. Other than that....lets go... "First, jack up your car". Yes really, and put it safely on stands. If you are not confident doing that you need to give this job to a mechanic
    • If the forester is anything like our old 2007 GTB Liberty, I could near on run ling Long's and "rate them", as no matter what, it just hung to the road, even when abusing it in a hard launch in the wet, or throwing it at corners.
    • LOL, all of the CAI like Craig I just need to put a hole saw through my bumper Done and dusted, the car runs, which is nice, I'll take it for a spin when the weather clears up Just need to put the bumper back on for good
    • Brooooo Please send ABS control unit schematic Please! R33 gts25t ABS (Its two plug ecu, black and white) wire colors possible? [email protected]
    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
×
×
  • Create New...