Jump to content
SAU Community

Picked up a chipped stockie ECU last night

riggaP

By riggaP,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

riggaP Veteran

riggaP

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Turned up the bleeder to get more power. With the stock ECU I couldnt run more than 10psi without running into misfire problems (which is the most infamous problem with 33 ecus). The chipped ecu has a much better ignition timing so I can push to boost to turbo annihilation :D

The overall power figure is not too much greater than the stock ecu but the car pulls to the redline A LOT quicker than before. People seem to forget its not just the top end power figure, its a combination of how quickly you can get there. If I had a scanner I'd post the before and after curves but alas I do not.

  • 2 weeks later...
Dr_Drift Veteran

Dr_Drift

Posted
Posted

The re-mapped ECU has a higher boost (afm) cut than stock which allowed us to increase the boost a little. apart from that there were signifcant gains in mid range response, not to mention the removal of the 180 km/h speed limiter.

All nissan ECU's are reprogrammable. I have found the adaptors for the RB25 and late model RB26 ones and just parts is over $900 per ECU :D

All other nissan ECU's are easily remapped.

Doc.

NickR33 Grand Master

NickR33

Posted
Posted

Interesting...my 33 is completely stock and I just discovered the 180km/h speed cut is disabled...(I think...the needle just kept going into the blackness)

I had a look for cut wires or switches that look aftermarket but couldn't find any and the ecu looks stock as a rock this is very weird...any ideas?

Jay95R33 Grand Master

Jay95R33

Posted
Posted
I managed to take it apart... just took blurry photo

Can you tell if this is stock?

:)

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/at...achmentid=10182

Nick - Check the MEC number on the main EPROM, if it matches the MEC number on the outside of the ECU then it's stock.

J

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • brillo
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By brillo · Posted

      Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      PXL_20250828_063541093.TS.mp4
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • PranK
      R35 GT-R production ends after 18 years

      By PranK · Posted

    • SteveL
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By SteveL · Posted

      I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...