Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Do you still have Hicas?? If not, the two hardlines that run under the car are perfect for weld on fittings and some dash 8 hose, in my application we use 2 044 pumps via a 4l surge tank to a twin entry fuel rail, sard fuel reg and 1 std line for return.

Do you still have Hicas?? If not, the two hardlines that run under the car are perfect for weld on fittings and some dash 8 hose, in my application we use 2 044 pumps via a 4l surge tank to a twin entry fuel rail, sard fuel reg and 1 std line for return.

i have the hicas lock kit on my garage floor but what would i need weld on fittings for?? i thought it was just a surgey and two pumps in the boot running lines under the car to the twin entry rail.

hey guys im up to the stage of getting parts for my fuel system one thing im not sure about is do i use the old feed and return as both feeds to the rail and just run one return back from the reg to the surge tank?

Yes that works, mines like that.

If you do a search on this topic youll see threads with all kinds of into and pics etc

best thing to do for that number IMO is to have 2 x 044 s running from a surge tank with stock pump as a feed. Do a new return line to the surge tank, twin entry rail, easy as

Yes that works, mines like that.

If you do a search on this topic youll see threads with all kinds of into and pics etc

best thing to do for that number IMO is to have 2 x 044 s running from a surge tank with stock pump as a feed. Do a new return line to the surge tank, twin entry rail, easy as

Yes...mines also like that....good for 1000hp at the flywheel.

I use the stock feed and return as feeds and a -6 braided line as a return. 3 Bosch motorsport pumps (one gauze bottomed swimmer pump in tank and two 044's off the surge tank), 1000cc Blitz injectors, GReddy twin entry fuel rail and a Sard regulator.

Works well :P

Its good to see you fella's showing the faith. No point trying to re-invent the wheel :P .

Plus the fact it's cheaper and easier just to be a sheep (pity we don't have a emoticon for that, might have to find one :))

:)

i didn't use the hicas lines for fuel lines instead

2 stainless lines feed and 1 return from gas tank all the way to the front

3 HKS 280L fuel pumps (intank)

2 inside the SARD 1L fuel tank and 1 in OEM fuel tank

aeromotive FRP

Tomei fuel rail

1000CC injectors

that is a flash setup, very nice with the gold fittings, gives it that japanese feel about it - nice gtr btw :P

yeah the sard surge tanks are good. they are basically like a mini fuel tank with inspection port on the top and you can mount your 'external' pumps inside it which does quieten them down a little and keeps them relatively cool too as they are sitting in fuel. it's a good way to go.

On the topic of fuel pumps, whats the max an 044 can handle?

I've set up my 044 intank pickup on my BNR34, looking to push around 380-400awkw on 2530s.

DiRTgarage, from memory you're making around 402awkw on 98 with 2530?

Any suggestions? Wasn't a lot of details on the article from HPi the GT-R special... haha!

On the topic of fuel pumps, whats the max an 044 can handle?

I've set up my 044 intank pickup on my BNR34, looking to push around 380-400awkw on 2530s.

DiRTgarage, from memory you're making around 402awkw on 98 with 2530?

Any suggestions? Wasn't a lot of details on the article from HPi the GT-R special... haha!

a single 044 can handle the above quoted power BUT you need to take into consideration the integrity of that setup i.e. what if u get fuel surge which u are gauranteed with that sort of power & assoc. g-force?

what if that pumps fails for any unknown reason, the only warning you might get is 'pop'

also, running 400awkw the engine becomes much more reliant on fuel delivery

in other words, i think u would be mad to run a single fuel pump as many others would agree - walking on egg shells

Edited by Marko R1

With regards to fuel surge, i always keep the tank pretty full. Usually pour when there is about a 1/4 of a tank left. However, i guess i could always keep it above half in worse case scenerio?

If the pump fails, wouldnt the engine just turn off? I recall driving and the hose to my surge tank came lose, i couldnt accelerate no more and the car just gradually turned off? So what kind of pop are you talking about?

I've got 800cc sard injectors, sard fuel rail and sard FPR and its dual entry so i suppose i have done the fuel system oks, however, i used to have a sard surge tank though i had petrol smell in my car, is that common when using surge tanks? I found it quite wierd and couldnt take the air pollution inside the cabin!!!

i thought u would respond with "i'll keep the tank full" as i has similaar thoughts but then bit the bullet & ran a proper system

more than likely engine will just turn off but if you're pushing that much power you dont want to run lean at all - pop as in engine failure

i know what u mean about petrol smell in the car - ive had that before & apparently it boils down to the type of fuel hose as some are porous? correct me if im wrong but this is what i was told

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sold listed as a Tomei LSD 1.5 Way For 1998+ Nissan Skyline ER34 25GT RB25DE w/Open R200 https://www.ebay.com/itm/174006114594?campid=5338967980&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&toolid=10050&customid=&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&loc_physical_ms=108689&loc_interest_ms=&campid=5338967980&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&toolid=10050&customid=71883f2ccc571356e0a757bc7adfdde2&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&loc_physical_ms=108689&loc_interest_ms= it went in like butter all gears, alignment, back lash etc, rotation and clearances correct, and if rolling all rotates smooth and free when coasting down road , clutch in or out over 10 mph smooth... its the binding, clunking and jerking from a stop that is most concerning, also seems like its going to tear the tires off in 10 miles of normal road driving. 
    • What 1.5 way? There's no such thing really as a 1.5 way, just different ways of explaining 2 ways with different ramp rates. HOWEVER. In any driving in a straight line your 1.5 or 2 or 1.7 way should have no clunking at all. With the clutch fully depressed the diff should be silent (unless it's welded but I'm assuming it's not). Something aint right here.
    • Clutch is a spec brand, new clutch system,( PP, flywheel, friction disc, etc. pull type) installed 100 miles ago, with no problems.
    • looking for some help and maybe some insight on others experience with a new LSD. R34 GT ran and drove beautifully, but always alot of grip loss due to the open R200 rear end, so I just installed a new 1.5 LSD way into the stock open R200 for a ER34. Simple. Everything seemed right. I test drove for the first time this weekend. as I started to back out the garage the first time slowly with tires straight it sounded and felt like I had a loose or half disconnected drive shaft...that was clucking around loose and shaking entire vehicle, and making it feel like the trans clutch was spontaneously slipping then grabbing very roughly while just letting out pedal slowly. I backed it out went to pull forward with the same noise, shake and slip grab feeling with hesitation, I turned the tires to back out more and then pulled ahead some same thing but worst because of added wheel resistance (which that I expected) puzzled … pulling it back in checking everything over and finding nothing wrong, I tried it the next day. same thing, couldn’t believe how it shook everything again making a terrible noise and making it feel like the trans clutch was slipping and grabbing, but I got it out of garage into the driveway, got it straight, drove forward and then reveres a few times in a straight line everything shaking , causing what felt like clutch slip and grab every time, sounded like right behind front driver tire and I could feel it in the floor board with my feet,... worst right when beginning to let clutch pedal out to engage slightly, shuttering and sounding terrible along the way…I managed to slowly get down the road, babying it the whole way, once I was rolling (out of 1st) seemed to be better and between shifts, then clutch felt closer to normal…not slip/ grab etc., but back down to any stop, straight road or turning, same thing. Made no difference if all tires were straight or if I was turning. All other gauge read out correct. with in 2 miles as planned I reached the empty parking lot and performed the break in procedure that came with lsd, essentially to drive in a figure 8 a bunch.  Did this, binding chattering, and shaking the car the whole way. I drove it back home seemed somewhat normal once I was in straight line and past 10 mph or so, and I know it will “bind” on corners and cause some tires squeal when turning especially from a stop, but when I begin to move it still causes what feels like the trans clutch to slip and jerk badly as well as shaking the entire car, and sounds terrible, that I didn’t expect. I used the fluid they supplied with LSD kit and did the breaking, planning to change fluid as they suggest after breaking, but wondering will it get smoother or less aggressive with use? maybe a 1.5 is just too aggressive for normal road driving?   I have a LSD that I put in my 71 cuda when I restored it, with amazing smooth , quite yet effective results. Different style LSD but that ones a joy to drive. maybe expecting too much from this R200?
    • Join SAU NSW for a flame-grilled feed & flame-spitting cruise! Sunday 17th August 2025 3:30PM Meeting Archies Flame Grille Sylvania Waters 4:45PM Cruise Departure 5:15PM Arrival at Cape Solander Kurnell Meet Location: Archies Flame Grille Final Destination: Cape Solander Kurnell *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
×
×
  • Create New...