Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey fellas, I did search, but failed to find the answer.

I have a 32 GTS-t with GTR front gaurds.

Rear gaurds are rolled.

Will R34 GTR wheels suit without major rubbing? Car is a tarmac rally thing so not overly stiff or low. Camber is only average, 2.5 front, 2 rear.

If they do, do you think they'll still fit with 265/35/18 rubber?

Am I correct in thinking R34 GTR wheels at +30mm?

Sorry for the nube question, I feel I used to know the answers but I'm getting old and definately drink far too much! :bunny:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/297863-r34-gtr-wheels-onto-r32-gts-t/
Share on other sites

i'm running 17x9+30 235/45/17 KU36's

-2 front, -1.2 rear

lightly rolled guards

345mm eyebrow all round

6kg front, 5kg rear

diameter will be 1mm less, width will be 30mm more.

you will be running more camber, and more of a rear guard roll than me, should be fine, fronts, should be fine, want me to check inner clearance for you? what height will you be running?

Troy might be your man.

My mechanic ran 34GTR rims, no issues on a 32GTR, so I assume with rear guard work and your front gtr guards you should be fine.

how come you are running 18's, and a 265 on a 9?

why not 33GTR rims with a 235?

Thank you kindly Ryan!

I actually have Troy's old WEDS 17" wheels on it now, but I can get velly chip 265/3518 Yoki A050's, hence the experiment.

If you can check inner clearence when you have a minute that'd be great! Heights on mine tend to vary, whether it's circuit racing or rallying, moves over a 25mm range.

My rear gaurds are only lipped, not rolled as such. I've emailed Troy to see what the "guru" has to say :bunny:

Thanks again!

They will fit fairly easily, even with that much tyre.

front will have a sunken battle ship look, rear will probably need a slight touch with a guard roller to clear the rubber.

My only concern on the front would be clearance to the suspension, but as there's so much room to play with due to the guards you could easily space them out.

I have 17x9 +25's with 235/45-17 re55's which sit square on the rim on the front of mine in this photo, heaps of clearance

2559918189_98fa286ac9_o.jpg

Cheers Dave! If it does have inner clearance issue in the front I'll use a 20mm bolt on spacer. I used the same on my old 32 GTR on the front and found it turned in much nicer.

Just on the hunt for some 34 wheels now :)

Do you guys think it's a ceertain that they won't fit using the original gts front gaurds?

I'm running 245/40/17 on 33 GTR rims. Comes damn close to suspension (Less than 3mm). I won't go wider. 265's will almost definitely rub on the inside unless you run spacers and then pump guards (or fit GTR guards). If they do fit and then run the AO50's it'll be freiken awesome.

34 and 33 gtr wheels are +30. Only diff is 18 vs 17 inch. Tyre profile will make outside diameter similarish...

With gtr front guards you won't have a problem with outside. Only inside problems with 265's. Spacer would fix this if you're happy to run them.

Rears shoud be fine on inside, may need to pump the guards a bit to fit that rubber.

Heck, with cheap AO50 semi's it'll be worth a try and spacers to make em work!!!

From what Russ said only reason I am not as close to rubbing is either my camber or 235's...

Check your clearance with 235's. It's prob about 5-7mm away from the suspension arm. That's a decent gap.

Also camber will not change how close it is to that suspension arm. It follows the tilt of the wheel with camber coz the upper control arm adjustment for camber is above that.

34 and 33 gtr wheels are +30. Only diff is 18 vs 17 inch. Tyre profile will make outside diameter similarish...

With gtr front guards you won't have a problem with outside. Only inside problems with 265's. Spacer would fix this if you're happy to run them.

Rears shoud be fine on inside, may need to pump the guards a bit to fit that rubber.

Heck, with cheap AO50 semi's it'll be worth a try and spacers to make em work!!!

Check your clearance with 235's. It's prob about 5-7mm away from the suspension arm. That's a decent gap.

Also camber will not change how close it is to that suspension arm. It follows the tilt of the wheel with camber coz the upper control arm adjustment for camber is above that.

wasn't sure what part of suspension you meant yours was close too, thanks for clarifying, profile will be pretty much the same, i checked on a tyre size calc.

^^ WTF are you smoking Roy? lol

Here they are, as yet with the GTR front gaurds fitted that I bought for it;

11468_102362446454898_1000004342972.jpg

With rolled edges the rubbing is very minimal, only one side at the front needs a bit more of a roll. They look awesome. Track time next Sunday we'll know for certain.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
    • The video for the servicing and fuel filter change can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44 One of the main jobs I wanted to do before the car officially went on the road, was to remove the awful looking blue silicone hoses. There's nothing wrong with having coloured silicone hoses, but I realise as I'm getting older I prefer monotone engine bays with a splash of colour on the engine cover(s). I cover this in a lot more detail in the Youtube video, so unfortunately there's limited photos of the process. The intercooler, upper radiator, boost vacuum and upper breather hoses were all changed to black silicone with mikalor clamps. The only blue left is a blanking cap at the back of the inlet manifold and the GReddy pulleys (which will be replaced for stock when the cambelt gets replaced) While the intercooler pipes were off I gave them a quick clean/polish too A before photo I do have a replacement air filter on its way. Fuse box covers were painted blue, they're now satin black Another job on the list while the bumper was off, is to add some mesh https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737966256_99b28bfa30_c.jpg[/img] I was hoping to use some thin wire to secure it, but it seems I've misplaced it and the wire I had was too thick to twist easily. I ended up using cable ties for the time being https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737131882_c2b7989dcc_c.jpg[/img] Was pleasant to see this https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737131627_8b2aab13b3_c.jpg[/img] The last thing to do was to fix the front grill and re-mesh that to match but I ran out of time The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R4FsF6tgizE&t=23s
×
×
  • Create New...