External Gate And Screamer

[beamstas]

Hi

I own a r33 gts-t with a low mount kkr430 turbo with 3" dump and 3" cat back exhaust. I am wondering how to go about externally gating it with a screamer pipe. I know there will be people saying don't do it but honestly you can't go past the sound of one. I've also heard of people having problems with kkr turbos holding boost. Can someone give me a rough idea of the costs involved in doing this?

Brad

[R31Nismoid]

wastegate - $450-$600

welding up/removal of factory gate - $100-$250

labour (remove/refit turbo, dump, screamer pipe etc etc) - $400

Then there are other variables about how you attach the gate, either via a new manifold or off the exhaust housing itself.

New manifold /w W/G extension - $800-1200 (provided you don't break any studs, which is unlikely, so add another $200 for all new studs + removal of the busted ones)

or

Off housing W/G welding/setup - $200-$300

Min cost IMO: $1,000

Honestly just for a bit of noise - you are going to spend more than what the turbo cost you, for nothing other than a defect notice.

The prices above are only a rough guess based on normal workshop pricing. You might be able to get it done cheaper if you are lucky.

You might also make a choice to use shitty china knock off parts. However cheap manifolds & gates tend to f**k up easily and can destroy your motor.

Remember the poor man pays twice.

The KKR430 won't have any major boost control problems if setup correctly. The larger KKR480/KKR530 items seem to be the ones with the major issues.

Lets face it, the KKR430 is hardly decent turbo & it still will not sound like a larger turbo + manifold setup that you've probably heard that really get the true screaming noise going.

Save your money and spend it elsewhere on something that will offer a performance gain.

[75coupe]

but in saying that if you want to do it, you only live once, do it...

[beamstas]

wastegate - $450-$600

welding up/removal of factory gate - $100-$250

labour (remove/refit turbo, dump, screamer pipe etc etc) - $400

Then there are other variables about how you attach the gate, either via a new manifold or off the exhaust housing itself.

New manifold /w W/G extension - $800-1200 (provided you don't break any studs, which is unlikely, so add another $200 for all new studs + removal of the busted ones)

or

Off housing W/G welding/setup - $200-$300

Min cost IMO: $1,000

Honestly just for a bit of noise - you are going to spend more than what the turbo cost you, for nothing other than a defect notice.

The prices above are only a rough guess based on normal workshop pricing. You might be able to get it done cheaper if you are lucky.

You might also make a choice to use shitty china knock off parts. However cheap manifolds & gates tend to f**k up easily and can destroy your motor.

Remember the poor man pays twice.

The KKR430 won't have any major boost control problems if setup correctly. The larger KKR480/KKR530 items seem to be the ones with the major issues.

Lets face it, the KKR430 is hardly decent turbo & it still will not sound like a larger turbo + manifold setup that you've probably heard that really get the true screaming noise going.

Save your money and spend it elsewhere on something that will offer a performance gain.

When you say kkr430 is hardly a decent turbo are you saying that it's a bad turbo or do you mean decent as in size? I've mainly been concerned with response so i didn't go the larger size. Initially i was going for a 480 but they are hard to get at the moment. The 430 still goes alright and will break traction easily in 2nd gear and start breaking out in 3rd at around 10psi when coming on boost. Spools very quickly too

I have been having trouble holding boost but that is a completely different issue (actuator) which is getting replaced tomorrow. I don't go for cheap china parts.. I went with the kkr because it has been rated as the best budget turbo (consider costs of garrett etc which would have blown out my budget considerably)

Thanks for the detailed reply, though. It is alot of money for a sound especially when i've paid money to get rid of sound also (silent bov).

Cheers

Brad

[TiTAN]

i wouldnt put KKR in the "good budget turbo" section. id stick it in the "cheap china section".

[beamstas]

i wouldnt put KKR in the "good budget turbo" section. id stick it in the "cheap china section".

Well it has a good warranty so by the time that runs out ill probably be able to afford a nice big garrett

[TiTAN]

at which point you have paid twice for something you only needed to pay for once.

[beamstas]

at which point you have paid twice for something you only needed to pay for once.

Sorry boss didn't know i wasn't allowed to upgrade my turbo 12mnths / 2yrs down the track

[R31Nismoid]

^ the old poor man pays twice - funny that

When you say kkr430 is hardly a decent turbo are you saying that it's a bad turbo or do you mean decent as in size? I've mainly been concerned with response so i didn't go the larger size. Initially i was going for a 480 but they are hard to get at the moment. The 430 still goes alright and will break traction easily in 2nd gear and start breaking out in 3rd at around 10psi when coming on boost. Spools very quickly too

I have been having trouble holding boost but that is a completely different issue (actuator) which is getting replaced tomorrow. I don't go for cheap china parts.. I went with the kkr because it has been rated as the best budget turbo (consider costs of garrett etc which would have blown out my budget considerably)

Thanks for the detailed reply, though. It is alot of money for a sound especially when i've paid money to get rid of sound also (silent bov).

Cheers

Brad

I'm saying the KKR's are a turbo from the 1970's basically.

They use old wheel designs, old core designs.

See if you purchased a better tech turbo you could make more power and have as good (or better) response than you do now. Win-Win in many respects.

Fair enough, on a budget, KKR is a "ok" choice.

However if you are on a budget why are you wasting $$$$ on a external gate conversion just for noise?

If you want noise stick your head out the window and yell at people, its cheaper and at least when you get sick of it, you ain't spent a cent

Honestly, if you are breaking traction in 2nd on 10psi with a 430hp turbo, you need better tyres mate.

My car at the moment is around 280rwkw, no major traction issues.

So like i said with the "spending it elsewhere", i think we know where - decent tyres for your car!

Better tyres makes your car faster and safer, i couldn't think of a better way to spend the money.

As for the BOV - you mean you have a plumb-back item now? You do know the factory BOV could do the same job for about... $40.

Or even a GTR BOV at around $70

[beamstas]

Fitting new tires tomorrow but honestly they are still decent

Should have spoken to you before i did any mods and saved some $$

I bought a gfb stealth bov.. it's fully adjustable so i can plumb it back 100% or have 100% venting or anywhere between. The car came with a knock-off hks super seq and sounded like crap.

The car pulls well for what it is so im happy anyway

[psi]

a BOV or screamer pipe wont make your car go any faster..

Lots of people mistake noise with horsepower, and frankly, they are way off.

Like said above, 10 psi on a kkr should be a very useable device as far as traction goes.

if your unloading in 3rd gear then you have traction issues.

get your wheel alignment checked, your probably running 3~5 neg camber. then check out some real tyres.

with good tyres and suspension set up, your car wont 'feel' fast, but it will be.. and safer!

[beamstas]

Thanks Fellas I realise the bov or screamer won't go any faster but i wanted to get rid of the hks ssq copy bov coz it sounded like crap..

Edited November 27, 2009 by beamstas

[PM-R33]

The 430 still goes alright and will break traction easily in 2nd gear and start breaking out in 3rd at around 10psi when coming on boost

Something is wrong, either extremely high spring rated coilovers, old/bald tyres or a very bad rear suspension setup (camber etc.)

There is no way a KKR430 on 10psi would break traction in third in a R33 unless the suspension/tyre setup was crap.

Edited November 27, 2009 by PM-R33

[beamstas]

Yeah as i said tyres / camber etc being looked at tomorrow as well as a new actuator