Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Gtr Blowing Smoke Through The Cacth Can (head)

loky

By loky,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

loky Proficient

loky

Posted
Posted

guys i just put my engine in to my 32 gtr. the engine its self is a series 33 gtr vspec engine. before we put it in we had it comp tested and came out a solid 120 through out all pistons. yesterday i gave it a lil push through first and second gears and it started to blow smoke through the cacth can. i emptyed the cacth can and took it off from the head and it was still blowing white smoke.

if anyone knows why this is happening or possibly has a solution to this please reply. would be much appreciated cheers

MBS206 Grand Master

MBS206

Posted
Posted

If it's been sitting for 6 months, possible water vapour?

Drive it around, put 100KMs on it, see if it's still there (That's if it's not like massive amounts looks like car is on fire style)

As Dirt said, another comp test/leak down.

STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

Posted
Posted

or its just spun a bearing and your seeing the resultant burnt oil escaping.... white oil from catch can is usually terminal. Ie the rods are hot enough to burn the oil in the sump.

  • 1 year later...
FineLine Grand Master

FineLine

Posted
Posted

lol before jumping to conclusions how bout asking? that was with a previous motor. i wouldnt be saying all inspections are more then welcome if the motor was stuffed!

He answered back when you first asked the question mate. Nothing to do with your current setup.

Read the date of his reply

STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

Posted
Posted

lol before jumping to conclusions how bout asking? that was with a previous motor. i wouldnt be saying all inspections are more then welcome if the motor was stuffed!

so i was right? engine was screwed.... and i cop a mouthful for not jumping to conclusions... :P

  • 3 weeks later...
loky Proficient

loky

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Guys that post wasn't directed at use. A member found this old topic and posted it on my forsale thread thinking I was trying to sell the car with a stuffed motor. How ever the cars motor has been replaced. I do apologize if use took it the wrong way an in no way am I trying to have a go at use because use helped me out. I just wrote that post about jumping to conclusions on the wrong page. Once again I do apologize for the mistake and did not direct that at anyone who commented this page sorry guys

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • brillo
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By brillo · Posted

      Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      PXL_20250828_063541093.TS.mp4
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • PranK
      R35 GT-R production ends after 18 years

      By PranK · Posted

    • SteveL
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By SteveL · Posted

      I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...