Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey man,

As an r31 lover, the car looks sick (drove past it in town). Personally id have a s1 passage gt front on it over a pinny. But if you want to leave it sleeper its doing the job.

I actually thought it was a pintara until i realised id seen it on here before.

Headers, Check, exhaust, check, fuel pump, going in very soon!

gas it will get!!

Got gass yet?

If you need some advice on a gas set up, pm me.

What ever kit you get grab one of these nozzles (they are the best fogger available): http://www.noswizard.com/product_desc.php?id=15

Hi Justin,

Nah not yet mate. Still on the cards but there has been a bit of a delay. Brodie and myself have been in sydney picking out a new car for him so quite a lot of funds went towards that. But the ol 31 wont be forgotten about! still hoping to do it within the next month or two.

Hi Justin,

Nah not yet mate. Still on the cards but there has been a bit of a delay. Brodie and myself have been in sydney picking out a new car for him so quite a lot of funds went towards that. But the ol 31 wont be forgotten about! still hoping to do it within the next month or two.

Mate if its gas you want i've got plenty i just dont know if its usable though :D

  • 9 months later...

i spun out when i seen the pictures. I've got a 31 which needs a bit of tlc, will get to it once i've finished on performance, any way, what spun me out is that i have almost the exact same numberplate and i thought for a moment that ya pinched them! Haha. Nice job though, perfect car for cruising.

Bit of a bump but would love to hear about any progress on this

okay, there's not too much to report. Since it was put back together, it has had the windows tinted (25%)

we fitted a Mini spool to it, improved out of corner traction, much more fun to drive. The head shat itself, so whilst it was off @ Tas Engine reco getting welded up, it received some further love. It has had a tidy up of the ports, 5 angle valve job, failry agressive Cam that Matt from Tas Engine reco had ground By Crow to his specs. head went back on and the ECU also got a pre Progamed chip which has give it some extra stick. made 109rwkws on GT's dyno a few months back. Its going to get a XF T/B and better intake along with a Nistune chip in the near furture as Mr summers mentioned it could better as it was quite rich. Some bigger wheels might be on the cards down the track, and maybe brakes. Brodie has A 32 GTR Vspec which the motor out of it is being built now, so the 31 has to wait a bit longer. It will take a few years but the 31 will be a monster!

  • 2 months later...

Thanks Shane you bet it's hard to keep clean and it seems every time I wash it lately it bloody rains lol. Unfortunately its not 100% at the moment though as i had someone throw a bottle through the back drivers side window on friday night so just waiting to get a new one through work.

Unfortunately its not 100% at the moment though as i had someone throw a bottle through the back drivers side window on friday night so just waiting to get a new one through work.

Ah, I saw the tape on the window, that would be why. Pricks!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...