Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 425
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

where are the pictures of you flying around the house in her R34 matt? or doesn't she trust you with the plastic keys??? think's ya might chew on em or swallow em :D

Yeah mate you got it in one, she doesn't let me near it :)

It's got a few drift scars on it now too.

Mel,

Do you reckon Andy might be getting ready for a bit of Aussie 'Queer Eye For The Straight Guy'? As in Andy is hoping to make it as a host... just kidding mate :)

Guest Miss_Nismo
Mel,

      Do you reckon Andy might be getting ready for a bit of Aussie 'Queer Eye For The Straight Guy'? As in Andy is hoping to make it as a host... just kidding mate :)

didn't you hear they are doing an australian queer eye, andrew is the star of the show

:headspin: don't worry andrew i think it's good you are doing what you have always dreamed :wassup:

Spotted a Moroan 33 get almost get sideswiped by a Camary @ the port rush intersection by the West End joint......

Also did anyone make the mistake of going down Rundle Street tonight?

There were 3 bacon bikes on each side with cops all up in the shit with defect stickers in their hands basically hoping to get something to defect....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
×
×
  • Create New...