Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You may have some issues although nobody could tell me what the difference is between the ARX and RS suspension.

I suspect the BC coilovers I bought may have been for the ARX as the rears were nothing like what I needed, but I never checked, I just modified them.

A friend has just bought an ARX (GOLD LIKE YOURS) and has been speaking to Just Jap as I believe they are having some made that will be available quite soon.

I will try to get some more specific details for you.

Cheers

Andy

I was recently speaking to a guy selling BC coilovers on Ebay, runs his business out of New Zealand. Told him of the issues scotty had with them, he made enquiries to BC, apparrently, they have updated the NM35 kit (sept or so) to correct the issues. He was witing for updated parts for his kits at the time. So presumably, any kit ordered now, would be correct.

Hope this helps, Dale

Thanks guys I've been looking on eBay as well and seen the same things but this guy in new Zealand is not responding to my emails and waiting for an answer back for tenabe ones guess I ll

have to just wait and see what happens

thanks again guys

Thanks guys I've been looking on eBay as well and seen the same things but this guy in new Zealand is not responding to my emails and waiting for an answer back for tenabe ones guess I ll

have to just wait and see what happens

thanks again guys

Be careful which set if you buy for an ARX.

Yes Tanabe NF are adjustible... from -37mm to -78mm front and -38mm to -73mm rear WHEN FITTED TO AN RS, which means that on an ARX, you will be 77mm lower at the front from stock ride height when the Tanabe's are fully wound out!!

Maybe look for Bilstein or Nismo dampers and add a set of springs that are suitable for ARX.

Edited by iamhe77
Be careful which set if you buy for an ARX.

Yes Tanabe NF are adjustible... from -37mm to -78mm front and -38mm to -73mm rear WHEN FITTED TO AN RS, which means that on an ARX, you will be 77mm lower at the front from stock ride height when the Tanabe's are fully wound out!!

Maybe look for Bilstein or Nismo dampers and add a set of springs that are suitable for ARX.

do u think they will fit straight on without any mods

do u think they will fit straight on without any mods

Do not know for sure.

I can't imagine that the setup would be any different, but you have to remember that the ARX is 40mm higher from factory than the RS/RX.

Can you trial fit?

They're not technically coil overs on the rear of an M35 as the springs are separate from the shocks. So only the front is true coil over and that's as per standard.

Cheers

Gary

I think most of us are aware of the old "coilover" chestnut.

Given your expertise in the industry, would you happen to have a suspension solution for the original question (also for the RS/RX owners)?

There's a few people (myself included) who would welcome a local solution rather than resorting to importing parts ourselves...

Cheers, Dale

I think most of us are aware of the old "coilover" chestnut.

Given your expertise in the industry, would you happen to have a suspension solution for the original question (also for the RS/RX owners)?

There's a few people (myself included) who would welcome a local solution rather than resorting to importing parts ourselves...

Cheers, Dale

I second that motion local is easiest way

but I'm leaning towards resetting the springs any positive or negative thoughts on this way I've been td that u get the same ride comfort as factory what do u guys think

cheers Damon

I had a set of Bilsteins fitted to the ARX but kept the original springs for ride height (wanted to keep the stock look plus find the tailgate is fairly low already). This generally fixed the washy ride but it now crashes over the slightest depression in the road. I guess that the softish stock springs are not matched to the stiff Billsteins.

Currently waiting to get a set of ARX height Pedders springs made thorugh Ben at Northshore. Apparently 30% stiffer springs.

The stiffer springs should also help cornering - perhaps what it will finally need is an adjustable set of sway bars like Andy has done.

I second that motion local is easiest way

but I'm leaning towards resetting the springs any positive or negative thoughts on this way I've been td that u get the same ride comfort as factory what do u guys think

cheers Damon

the ride with the the Lowered Bilstein springs and sway bars is definatley firmer and can crash over some bumps but mind you with the stock setup the car was leaping over the road through the same pot holes. Also a big factor will be the tires you have on your car. the stiffness of the side wall is noticeable.

I guess for me the real test was from the seat of the pants of my wife. She thinks the ride is very good and has no problem with the stiffness of the set up and she is definable not into performance cars at all.

And best of all,, I love it. :)

On the topic of coilovers/suspension,

i have the tein kit on my car, it gets a little bouncy in the rear end still.. what do i do to fix this problem?

What kind of adjustment to they have? none? Height? Height & damper?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
    • Sorry I meant that we are building the EH for a client.
    • LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
×
×
  • Create New...