Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OK I've had this weird thought that I should buy a VT/VX SS Commodore GenIII 6 speed. The reasons are I want something that I can tow a boat with next year when I buy one and something a little larger in size so I can seat more people.

I currently own an R33 GTST that I have had NO problems with at all. The only thing is the car will be 10 years old next year and as all cars this old it is showing its age.

Feel free to swing my decision away from the SS but keep in mind I want something NEW not pre 1997. Yes I could buy a 1991 R32 GTR :sly: but these cars are far too old. The engine will be tired and so will be the paint.

So basically I want something around the $25-28k, NEW, powerfull, towing capabilities and reliable.

HELP

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/30016-help-me-i-want-to-buy-a-commodore/
Share on other sites

Autech Stagea 260RS - no further discussion required :rolleyes:

fun for the WHOLE family! :)

Maybe not Autech, but possibly a Stagea.

oh and ur looking at figures of about 30% of GenIII's with mechanical problems, major problems.

oh and ur looking at figures of about 30% of GenIII's with mechanical problems, major problems.

Where are these statistics from?

10% of people know statistics 50% of statistics are made up on the spot :rolleyes:

Honestly, I don't think a VTii/VX SS is a bad idea.

Guest RedLineGTR

for about $25-28k u can find yourself (well i have seen advertised) a nice R34 Gtt (stock Form) going for about 28-29K the year is a 98 model so its not that old if your worried about it depends what u want to use it for. For that price you have to have a decent look around but these are the prices they are starting to go for.

Autech Stagea 260RS - no further discussion required :rolleyes:

fun for the WHOLE family! :)

QUOTE]

Id love an Autech Stagea too, its a pitty that they sell for more than R34 GTRs hey? If only i had a spare 100k lying around.

Im pretty sure there is only 1 Autech Stagea in Australia, the one that was in HPI a while back.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, this is probably where a wiring diagram and a multimeter come into play.
    • I can say to anyone thats doing this; having done a number of R clusters; just be careful if its an unknown cluster.  It takes a bit of force to pull up; but if it feels excessive then its probably stuck. I've had this and pulled the entire hair spring out; and I can tell you; its not easy getting the correct spring replacement with the correct inner diameter and winding. In my case someone had used some sort of adhesive to stick it to the spindle and it pulled the whole spindle out; which the force seperated the hairspring from the spindal and caused it to deform.  You may have to clean it (IPA); or in my case if i'd known i should have used some sort of solvent on it.  Also check out Cruizin Central on eBay. He does all sorts of dials; and you can email him with any custom designs you want. So if you want like certain logos etc...he'll send you a mock of what it will look like then you accept the order and he'll take care of the rest. Fantastic dials and he can do basically any design you want. 
    • Have you confirmed its the actual axles? Also the wheel bearings that mount on the hubs to hold the axles wear out. I replaced mine as they got play in them. It sorted my play issue. 
    • Ive converted a few clusters for the R33 with 320km/h dials. On the back there are some pads which can be bridged or unbridged (using solder or wick braid) to calibrate it. There is one bridge which is for MPH <> KPH; and there are combinations of bridges to offset it. There is probably a diagram  For example; this is my conversion for a 180km/h dial to a 320km/h dial (I put custom GT-R dials on it with the GTS25t layout) If you have J2 soldered (assuming the S clusters have a similar config to the R clusters); you may need to remove that solder
    • Back on topic 😉, these are some of the notable pages from the booklets that are supplied with each weekly parts update. I never knew the BNR32 test mule car had an S13 Silvia front end... *Edit: On closer inspection the test car still had the R32 body, but only the front end had Silvia panels etc.
×
×
  • Create New...