Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone, I was hoping somebody would be able to lend their wisdom as I'm having a bit of trouble finding solid information on what I'll be needing + what people recommend for driveline oils and lubes for a S2 Stagea RS4S.

The car is a daily drive with around 80,000km on it currently and I'm looking to do pretty much all the driveline oils first thing in the new year but I'm just stumped on what I should be considering to do the job. Price isn't a factor but reliability certainly is.

The gearbox and diff certainly feel like their in good condition, the only notable annoyance is occasionally first or reverse sometimes doesn't want to go in after the car has been started on a cold morning it eventually comes around after about 10-15 seconds after starting though, otherwise the drive itself never presents an issue, no crunching or worn feeling gears at all.

I know I'm basically up for many if not all of the same requirements for the driveline as the R33 GTR but for reference could anyone help point me in the right direction for capacities and recommended grades for Gearbox, Transfer Case, Front / Rear LSD and Hicas.

I'm between using Genuine Nissan, Redline Oils, Royal Purple and Motul for the job, but I'm happy to hear all helpful suggestions :-)

Thanks in advanced.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/300335-series-2-stagea-rs4s-driveline-oils/
Share on other sites

same spec as the gtr

for attesa (the p/s looking res in the boot) use genuine nissan power steering fluid

asside from that use anything that is fully synthetic

you need diff fluid that has the lsd additive in it (castrol do a full syn one, think penrite does too)

just use stuff rated for r33 gtr

I get a 20L synthetic atf and use it in the auto (well i used to ...got a manual now) the attessa and the power steering.

Castrol Edge 10 -60 for the engine.

Redline in the manual box (do some searching in the skyline forum to see which you want).

Castrol Edge 10 -60 for the engine.

thats pretty thick, if its a neo motor the stock nissan oil is 7.5w30

10w60 is 3 weights heavier and unless it goes to the track and sees temps 30°C+ higher than normal then its way too thick

i'll be running 10w40 max, will prob just use 10w30

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This looks great! Awesome to have the 5 speed with an LSD in this. The Recaro's look like SR2's or SR3's. It's a shame they've been retrimmed as they would have looked sweet in their original colours. I think I'd want my agent to be a little more up front and informative too. I've never imported but I reckon it would make me a little nervous, so the more info the better.
    • Thanks for doing that Duncan! Makes you a good person in my books. We don't get kangaroos or wombats here. But we have bats and it's similar. AFAIK it's often the mums with a baby attached that get hit because they drop lower when starting from a tree. If you hit an animal, check on it. https://www.ifaw.org/au/resources/wildlife-rescue-app An app to get the closest wildlife rescue contact.
    • My dream is also to have a proper hoist, but I don't think it will ever happen. My quickjack is probably as close as I'll ever get, it really is very good though. 
    • Yeah we keep on in the dailies, it is pretty poor how many animals get hit and the driver leaves without checking....have saved a couple of little ones over the years. Bit of a gruesome job though, pouches generally need to be cut open because they are so tight and often the joey doesn't realise mum is gone so they are still locked onto the teat. I checked the modules in front of the DS wheel where an oil cooler should go.... There is the radar unit - that can go for race use) One of the 2 HX water pumps, the silver cylinder. That needs to be kept but might be able to be relocated But the bad news, the big computer mounted vertically in front of the wheel (blocking any potential air exit) is the electric steering computer. That is required until/unless i do a hydraulic steering conversion, and in CAD based modern car design it is not like I can just pop a big unit like that somewhere else (plus the loom would be too short anywhere else too). So, the passenger side is OK to clear out (just use a smaller washer reservoir, potentially elsewhere), but the DS no beuno
    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
×
×
  • Create New...