Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Its always the guys trying to do things on the cheap at CRD who always whinge and its the ones who are prepared to spend the money and follow their instructions that get the results.

thats a bit harsh paul... not all of us are super cashed up, im not saying you are, but you have spent alot of money on your car.. so you stand up for CRD and thats great... so someone like me saves up as much as possible to get my car tuned by the best because of what you said... and they recommend me something that i just plumb cannot afford.. im prepared to spend the money... i just dont have the money to spend... so does that mean they wont do their best to work with what ive given them??

Customer service? mate its the modified car industry...harden up for gods sake...its not a GTR owners counselling club where they waste their time chatting over coffee.

aint gonna be much going on without customers... first impressions last and little personality goes along way, and its free..

This is the same reason i pick and chose my work...as soon as someone who wants an engine done doesn't want to spend the money to make it work properly and reliably then i suggest to them that they should probably look somewhere else to get it done. My reputation and piece of mind are not worth short-cuts and people who are not prepared to listen.

i want to spend the money.. but if i dont have it, i dont have it! so would you just brush me off as not being good enough for you or would you help me achieve the best i can with what ive got??

now what if someone chose you for your reasons above, they listened to you and were prepared to spend on whatever you recomended, and you left them in the lurch with an untuned car making much less than you said it would make.. what would that do to your reputation?

  • Replies 74
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hi finally got the car back from croydon yesterday. Jim had the car for 2 weeks and re-checked everything i had previously checked. He ran the car on the dyno with actuaors closed, exhaust off ect and showed me the dyno print out. I was amazed to see the difference with the exhaust off, boost came on strong at 5000rpm (1500rpm earlier!!!) I did try this but obviously you cant see the difference on the road while trying to drive, thats the beauty of having a dyno i guess!!! He also fitted new eboost 2 and explained to me that installing cam gears will also help alot and gave me a money back guarantee!!! I have purchased some cam gears which i will fit up next week and take back to croydon for another tune. Jim was very helpful at crd and was very shocked at how cheap he was ($700 for eboost install and setup, and 2 weeks worth of diagnoses!!!) will keep you posted after the cam gears are fitted up

cheers

so the problem was a small exhaust?

the actuators werent closing properly?

timing was out?

did u ask jim went u went back that wen he had dyno tuned ur car , didnt he feel it was laggy as shit on the dyno , and y he never really did anything to sort that out while he had it , or even mention anything to you?

Hi finally got the car back from croydon yesterday. Jim had the car for 2 weeks and re-checked everything i had previously checked. He ran the car on the dyno with actuaors closed, exhaust off ect and showed me the dyno print out. I was amazed to see the difference with the exhaust off, boost came on strong at 5000rpm (1500rpm earlier!!!) I did try this but obviously you cant see the difference on the road while trying to drive, thats the beauty of having a dyno i guess!!! He also fitted new eboost 2 and explained to me that installing cam gears will also help alot and gave me a money back guarantee!!! I have purchased some cam gears which i will fit up next week and take back to croydon for another tune. Jim was very helpful at crd and was very shocked at how cheap he was ($700 for eboost install and setup, and 2 weeks worth of diagnoses!!!) will keep you posted after the cam gears are fitted up

cheers

So the exhaust was too restrictive. What did you change?

My opinion is you have to be clear with what you want out of a tuner. If you go to a tuner stating you only want to spend $750 and you want 300awkw. Technically he has done what you asked.

If the car has been 100% for the past year and you are just upping the boost 5psi then sure just ask for a tune. But if you have just installed aftermarket turbos, dump pipe etc etc then I would personally say can you please inspect my setup and if everything is fine, tune it.

Its such a fine line between leaving them help out and leaving them do whatever they want.

Sounds like they definitely came to the table in the end though.

Yea Travis,

What did they fix? what did they change? what did they do? you havent told anyone yet :P

I reckon buy a supra, put a gt35r in it and be done with :)

Yeah I agree aswel

Supras are great cars, super strong drivetrain and of course the 2J

can wait to get the 35r on mine

hi guys, not posted for a while but have been nosying on here..i dont want to upset anyone on here, but why is it time and time again you guys buy the wrong turbos for there applications?.1.2 bar? the turbos wont do anything until 1.5 bar. get some boost in them and there will be no lag. we run an rb26 here with -5 at 1.7 bar there is 1 bar at 3200rpm and full boost by 4000rpm. you would have been better buying -7 or gtss for the power you are making. remember lifes starts at 2bar of boost..lol. bernie.. get them wound up or change for smaller ones and get them wound up then enjoy the car for what it is..

so, without changing anything else apart from the peak manifold pressure, how would the turbos come on boost quicker?

how is your engine comparable to his unless we know the full details of each engines specs and everything related to power production that's bolted to it?

the low-mid rpm flow characteristics of the compressor/turbine wheels hasn't changed. if the wastegates stay shut right up until the desired boost setting is approached, the transient response time will be the same regardless of if you're running 1.2 or 1.7 bar

Those results are pretty good. I am putting the same turbos on with CAM gears and will be stoked with that power level and full boost by 4,500RPM.

P.S. Seen your car around looks great with the black wheels!

yeah its fun on the street, i just got cam gears too, fitting them next week then off to crd for final tune,

cheers for the compliment :)

so the problem was a small exhaust?

the actuators werent closing properly?

timing was out?

did u ask jim went u went back that wen he had dyno tuned ur car , didnt he feel it was laggy as shit on the dyno , and y he never really did anything to sort that out while he had it , or even mention anything to you?

He told me that the exhaust was too restrictive, and that fixing that along with a set of cam gears on there it will fix my problem, so i will be replacing the exhaust and fitting the cam gears next week, jim assured me if this does not fix my problem he will give me my money back

As to why he never told me that it was too laggy when they had it, i couldnt tell you, all they said to me when i asked this was " you only told us you wanted 300 atw which it made

Yea Travis,

What did they fix? what did they change? what did they do? you havent told anyone yet :D

I reckon buy a supra, put a gt35r in it and be done with :)

hahahaha danny, you make me laugh, only if supras werent so ugly maybe i would have got one from the start hahaha :(

so, without changing anything else apart from the peak manifold pressure, how would the turbos come on boost quicker?

how is your engine comparable to his unless we know the full details of each engines specs and everything related to power production that's bolted to it?

the low-mid rpm flow characteristics of the compressor/turbine wheels hasn't changed. if the wastegates stay shut right up until the desired boost setting is approached, the transient response time will be the same regardless of if you're running 1.2 or 1.7 bar

spot on!!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...