Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Bought this last year in Japan and now that Ive had my fun its time to part it out and move on, EVERYTHING is for sale that is on it.

Location: Adelaide

MORE PICTURES COMING!

sdc10477l.th.jpg

sdc10475.th.jpg

sdc10474m.th.jpg

sdc10473.th.jpg

sdc10472.th.jpg

sdc10469g.th.jpg

sdc10467y.th.jpg

sdc10466v.th.jpg

sdc10465k.th.jpg

sdc10464s.th.jpg

sdc10463c.th.jpg

Is part isn't listed just ask Ill update with a price/picture.

Edited by JiN_MaN
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/300664-stripping-r32/
Share on other sites

Exterior:

BN Body Kit $650

sdc10530e.th.jpg

sdc10529o.th.jpg

sdc10528.th.jpg

Headlights $200 pair

sdc10524w.th.jpg

Indicators $70 pair

sdc10575i.th.jpg

Rear Brake Lights $100 pair

sdc10537.th.jpg

sdc10539w.th.jpg

Boot lid $70

sdc10541d.th.jpg

Mirrors $100 pair

sdc10544x.th.jpg

sdc10546s.th.jpg

Doors $400 pair, including glass, interior

sdc10548k.th.jpg

sdc10545.th.jpg

GTR Grill $100

sdc10531.th.jpg

GTR Bonnet $450 with GTR latch, needed for installing on GTS-T

sdc10473.th.jpg

Guards: $150 pair, Have been rolled and not heaps well, check pictures

sdc10527.th.jpg

sdc10526.th.jpg

Front reo *SOLD*

Rear reo $50

sdc10577b.th.jpg

Sunroof module $150

sdc10543i.th.jpg

FULL SET S15 rims, most have some rash of them, come with tyres but unsure how much tread left $400

sdc10479r.th.jpg

FULL SET Sparco 17" rims, unsure of offset and width, have 60-70% tyres all round $700

sdc10478q.th.jpg

Glass

Front $150

Rear $150

Rear Quarter $50 each

Door glass being sold with doors

Edited by JiN_MaN
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/300664-stripping-r32/#findComment-4994217
Share on other sites

Interior:

Blitz Boost Controller S-SBC $300

Razo Turbo Timer + loom $30

sdc10562y.th.jpg

Big Clip on rear view mirror $30

sdc10558.th.jpg

Jap bucket seat $350

sdc10553a.th.jpg

R32 Sidemount rail $150

Rear seat *SOLD*

GTR passengers $300, also have GTR rear seat $150 or $375 together

Roof lining $50

A pillar plastic $30

Lower rear plastic *SOLD*

Upper rear plastic (around quarter windows) *SOLD*

Dash with all vents $125

Dash Cluster $70

sdc10549w.th.jpg

Dash cluster Surround $30

Nardi Wheel with Horn button (not pictured) $200

Centre console $30

Centre plastic around Cd player/Gearstick $50

Carpet $100

Genuine Skyline floor mats, all 5 $100

Engine Bay/Suspension/Underneath

HKS FMIC with all piping - GTR style $400

sdc10517j.th.jpg

sdc10514p.th.jpg

HKS POD $30

Engine, loom, AFM complete package but(NO TURBO), Compression test being done on Sunday. $800

sdc10512.th.jpg

sdc10518a.th.jpg

Gearbox $500

Turbo (upgraded, unsure on specs), Apexi SAFC, HKS remapped ECU, complete bolt on upgrade for RB20. $800

sdc10551.th.jpg

Nismo R32 GTR diff in housing $800

Tein Shocks and Spring, Damper adjustable, FANTASTIC suspension, $800 dont care if I dont sell I will keep them.

Aftermarket Radiator $150

sdc10568.th.jpg

TOMS 1.3 Bar radiator Cap $20

sdc10567c.th.jpg

SHELL

Complete stripped shell with probably many left over bits,

Fuel tank

Complete body loom

Probably all glass

$850 FIRM

Edited by JiN_MaN
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/300664-stripping-r32/#findComment-4994219
Share on other sites

Sorry mate, wont separate, Dash is cheap take it all. Ill break the vents trying to get them out.

Ah no problem mate thanks anyway. It's not worth me bringing the whole dash to sydney its gana cost me about $90 to get it here. Thanks mate

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/300664-stripping-r32/#findComment-4994857
Share on other sites

Will u take $190Aud for the sunroof assembly(glass, slide cover, rails, motor and all fasteners) shipped to L0S1B0 Ontario Canada. Payment via Paypal or Money Order.

Edited by Beacher1B0
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/300664-stripping-r32/#findComment-5006597
Share on other sites

Sorry bud, I am still new and can't send PM's yet. Yeah interested in the front GTR seats and gb. How good was the box when you finished using it?

No probs mate, Ill talk to you in here then.

Gearbox was absolutely perfect late time it was driven. Couldn't fault it in anyway. From memory currently has 'Redline' oil in it and only 100km old

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/300664-stripping-r32/#findComment-5013416
Share on other sites

Bonnet

Bonnet Latch

Grill

Nismo Diff

All Nismo Arms

Tein Suspension

Sunroof

All have a deposit paid.

thats a vertex kit bud just to let you know

Cheers bud, I fail at bodykits :geek:

how much would you sell the engine and box and all the parts to change mine from auto to manual

Pm me and we might be able to work something out

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/300664-stripping-r32/#findComment-5013429
Share on other sites

Shell picked up and GONE!!!! :blink:

added to the sold list:

Radiator

Radiator Cap

Front reo

HKS FMIC

Moving home in 2 weeks, would be great to see all of this gone.

Edited by JiN_MaN
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/300664-stripping-r32/#findComment-5015922
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
×
×
  • Create New...