Jump to content
SAU Community

S2 Stagea Rs4s Manual Clutch Help

beaugus

By beaugus,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

beaugus Contributor

beaugus

Posted
Posted

Hey all, had another question which I need help finding the right advise for. I'm needing to replace the clutch in my Series 2 Stagea RS4S shortly and was hoping somebody on here could help me source the right part number for a replacement clutch kit by exedy.

Till this point I was under the impression the Stagea has an R33 GTR gearbox fitted up as factory standard therefor I should be looking at clutch components that suit the 33 but after searching through a few posts already I haven't been able to find a definitive answer or part number.

If anyone has had their clutch replaced using exedy parts I would greatly appreciate knowing what they had fitted and their thoughts on the clutch after having it installed.

Thanks in advanced.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/300747-s2-stagea-rs4s-manual-clutch-help/
Share on other sites
beaugus Contributor

beaugus

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Update

I've got the correct part numbers for the corresponding clutch kits to suite a Series 2 Stagea from 98-on they are as follows for everybody's future reference.

Clutch Size: 250x25.5x24

Pull Type Clutch to suit RB25DET NEO

OEM Replacement: NSK-7333 / $941.20

Heavy Duty Kit: NSK-7333HD / $1,079.95

Heavy Duty Button Kit: NSK-7333HDB / $1,186.95

Heavy Duty Cushion Button Kit: NSK-7333HDCB $1,450.70

pork hunt drifting Rising Star

pork hunt drifting

Posted
Posted

i just got the jim berry clutch and im more than happy with it. im fairly sure it was around $900 for him to rebuild the r34gtt clutch thats in the gtr box to a higher clamping pressure and it shits over my mates heavy duty xtreme.

beaugus Contributor

beaugus

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The NSK-7172 series suits all GTR variances from 1993-on, so late model R32 GTR's all the way through to 2002 R34's that feature a pull-type clutch. Coincidentally it also appears to fit Series 2 Stageas as well.

The NSK-7333 suits 98 model-on R34 GT-T's as well as Series 2 Stagea's so it appear that Nissan have made the fitment sizes identical between the GT-T and GTR of the same period probably for convenience.

I would assume the only real difference (if any) is perhaps the torque capacity of the GTR (NSK-7172) clutch may be higher but this I can't confirm.

lilcrash Veteran

lilcrash

Posted
Posted

yer its possible both clutches are the same. kinda weird, as i said that what i have in mine now. exedy has quoted that there nsk7172hd will only hold 363kw at the fly and do not recommend use in stageas. i had a heavy duty put in and i already regret it. its starting to show signs of slipping. (only a few weeks old). my brother inlaw had the same clutch fitted to his r33 rwd and it only lasted a week. but his car has got a few little mods i think its about 300hp atw.

pipster11 Grand Master

pipster11

Posted
Posted
yer its possible both clutches are the same. kinda weird, as i said that what i have in mine now. exedy has quoted that there nsk7172hd will only hold 363kw at the fly and do not recommend use in stageas. i had a heavy duty put in and i already regret it. its starting to show signs of slipping. (only a few weeks old). my brother inlaw had the same clutch fitted to his r33 rwd and it only lasted a week. but his car has got a few little mods i think its about 300hp atw.

have you bedded the clutch in properly? your supposed to drive really softly for about 1000kms before you go anywhere near WOT otherwise it will slip

will also f**k up if you didn't get the flywheel machined

32TAXI Experienced

32TAXI

Posted
Posted
have you bedded the clutch in properly? your supposed to drive really softly for about 1000kms before you go anywhere near WOT otherwise it will slip

will also f**k up if you didn't get the flywheel machined

And cleaned properly!!! machining cast will bring carbon to surface and if not cleaned with solvent will cause slipping & shuddering.

  • 3 years later...
S T A R 3 3 Veteran

S T A R 3 3

Posted
Posted

Update

I've got the correct part numbers for the corresponding clutch kits to suite a Series 2 Stagea from 98-on they are as follows for everybody's future reference.

Clutch Size: 250x25.5x24

Pull Type Clutch to suit RB25DET NEO

OEM Replacement: NSK-7333 / $941.20

Heavy Duty Kit: NSK-7333HD / $1,079.95

Heavy Duty Button Kit: NSK-7333HDB / $1,186.95

Heavy Duty Cushion Button Kit: NSK-7333HDCB $1,450.70

He guys.. a very strong bump here, but I'm wondering if the above information is still valid? Has anyone else gone down a different route and/or have any recommendations in regards to replacing the clutch?

GoldZilla Grand Master

GoldZilla

Posted
Posted

I'm really happy with my Nismo twin-plate Super CopperMix. It cost a fare wedge of cash, but it's light to use, not too bitey, and should easily last quite a while even when (or if) I ever bump up the power levels.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Waders360
      M35 Brake caliper replacement

      By Waders360 · Posted

      Sorry. Front brake calipers
    • MBS206
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
×
×
  • Create New...