Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone, around february or so im getting a group of cars together to go to WSID and to have a bit of fun. They want to go to the track and test the cars to their full potential. I want to see if any N/A skylines would be interested in going, or really any N/A car that isnt over 6 cylinders(trying to keep it somewhat fair).

Current cars going:

My 300ZX -catback,pod,chip,UDP 131.4rwkw 5spd man - will have SAFC+tune by then

VR V6 - Bellmouth removed, Catback, Intake(pod,cai,tb pipe) 4spd auto

SSS - Catback & Pod - 5spd man

Lancer 1.8L Sedan - 4spd auto

Lancer 1.5L Coupe -Catback, pod+tb pipe - 5spd man

2004 Magna ES 3.5L - Stock - 4spd auto

Alfa romeo 156 Selespeed - Auto

Cars MAYBE going:

VL N/A - exhaust,pod, extractors - 5psd manual

300ZX Targa - pod - 4spd auto

I'm doing this in february as thats the earliest everyone will be free to go. Also as most of us are new to this, expect a bunch of 17 second slips :):(

yes yes, the P plate brigade is going to race, but atleast we're doing it legally! ;)

Edited by Super Drager
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/300867-wsid-drags-would-any-nas-wanna-go/
Share on other sites

i might come if my car has all the body work done and i get new tyres. Cant go on the track with 2 semi slicks and another too that are mesh at the front =\ ANNND if i can hit the 5000km mark on the odometer then i will be able to push the car so i dont damage the new engine.

r33 GTS4 - RB27DE ( 50 thou piston upgrade) ... and a pod thats it! Kw ~Unknown~

Good on you guys for organising events like this.

It's great to see the stereotyped car enthusiasts getting out and having fun safely, and legally :(

Yeah, i'm trying to get a bunch of N/A's together and just have a good time and compare slips afterwards. So far the commodore & the magna are the only cars that look like they'll be a challenge. The commodore isn't like any other V6 one i've been in, it has stupidly high bottom end power and keeps up with higher powered cars very easily. Would be fun to get some quick N/A lines and supra's there along with whoever wants to go. If you have a turbo and want to show up feel free, i can get two or three other turbo R33's to come aswell.

i might come if my car has all the body work done and i get new tyres. Cant go on the track with 2 semi slicks and another too that are mesh at the front =\ ANNND if i can hit the 5000km mark on the odometer then i will be able to push the car so i dont damage the new engine.

r33 GTS4 - RB27DE ( 50 thou piston upgrade) ... and a pod thats it! Kw ~Unknown~

YES! that sounds like it'd be pretty quick so if you can, show up.

I might be up for this.. Only ever been once with my 34 ran a 15.0, 15.1, 15.3 with my old bilsteins and crappy tyres that got too much wheel spin and 3" Kakimoto Full mega exhaust,

Got new suspension and might feel like giving it a proper go with or without new tyres to get under that 15 sec margin. Still painfully slow

Preferably go after the 15th so ill have the money.. haha

i might come if my car has all the body work done and i get new tyres. Cant go on the track with 2 semi slicks and another too that are mesh at the front =\ ANNND if i can hit the 5000km mark on the odometer then i will be able to push the car so i dont damage the new engine.

r33 GTS4 - RB27DE ( 50 thou piston upgrade) ... and a pod thats it! Kw ~Unknown~

:):) lol hope the road aint wet :):woot:

im just gunna rock up lol

Good on you guys for organising events like this.

It's great to see the stereotyped car enthusiasts getting out and having fun safely, and legally :rant:

+1 guys. The track is great. Good to see some smart young blokes still exist haha.

:(:( lol hope the road aint wet :(:)

im just gunna rock up lol

We all know cheap $199 semi slicks are not aloud on my car ever again! Toyo Proxie T1R's are more like it!

Yeah hopefully if jason helps me finish the car off it will be down in my car :)

Once i buy my list from NENGUN it should be a lot better.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...