Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ill make it easy, can someone please explain to me how to set up the whole coolant feed & return then i can cover all bases, the coolant feed has an 18mm thread that bolts into the turbo & a 14mm thread that bolts into the rear end of the block, the only confusing thing is the 14mm connection into the rear end of the block is already holding a copper circle with a rubber hose running off of it up the back of my block, im just unsure what im meant to do here, should i put both copper circles (one from the coolant feed & the one thats already there) on the same 14mm bolt meaning there would be 2 copper circles on the same bolt, or do i bolt one of them elsewhere? is it possible that the existing one is just temporary because i didnt have a turbo?.. the coolant return pipe has an 18mm thread into the turbo as well but doesnt have a screw on the other end of it just a rubber hose thats meant to go somewhere i am unsure where its meant to go, any help would be much appreciated.

Edited by azzafreddy
  • Replies 118
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

ill make it easy, can someone please explain to me how to set up the whole coolant feed & return then i can cover all bases, the coolant feed has an 18mm thread that bolts into the turbo & a 14mm thread that bolts into the rear end of the block, the only confusing thing is the 14mm connection into the rear end of the block is already holding a copper circle with a rubber hose running off of it up the back of my block, im just unsure what im meant to do here, should i put both copper circles (one from the coolant feed & the one thats already there) on the same 14mm bolt meaning there would be 2 copper circles on the same bolt, or do i bolt one of them elsewhere? is it possible that the existing one is just temporary because i didnt have a turbo?.. the coolant return pipe has an 18mm thread into the turbo as well but doesnt have a screw on the other end of it just a rubber hose thats meant to go somewhere i am unsure where its meant to go, any help would be much appreciated.

the pipe with the copper circle thingy your talking about are banjo bolts

the water feed comes from that 14mm thread on the block and goes to the turbo, than the other line goes from the turbo with that copper circle thing your talking about to that rubber hose your talking about... the rubber hose part travels behind the engine and over to the inlet side of the block, there will either be a fitting off the plenum that the hose is suppose to go to or it'll be a t piece off one of your heater lines... 

okay im going to explain this using pictures that i found on another forum..

these photos are of an rb25det rebuild, with the same braided turbo coolant/oil lines that i have on order.

im not sure which line is the coolant feed and which is the return, but at this stage its not what im trying to find out, im pretty sure this is the feed..

1.jpg

im pretty sure this is the return going to the back of the block..

42.jpg

ok what i've been trying to explain, theres 2 yellow circles on the 2nd picture, at the moment there is a rubber hose going between them 2 coolant connections, is it just temporary because my turbo has been removed? i am in the process of setting my turbo up again, ive done all the work apart from the coolant lines, should i set them up exactly like the pictures show?

p.s i do have the same metal braided lines on order hopefully they are here tomorrow..

please dont hesitate to tell me if this doesnt make sense i've been trying my hardest to explain it, next step ill take some pictures of my engine.

Edited by azzafreddy

the car did run quite well after a while, but never the less the engine was setup to run with a turbo, taking the turbo out isn't the greatest of ideas.. i'm glad with what i have learned from this forum & appreciate all the people that are willing to help out, ill post up some pics when i'm finished & the cars going well.. cheers.

well, if anything else this has been a very enjoyable read.

hah ha you've gotten a good flaming hey

and you owe SECURITY a good long b/j, gold bullion or your firstborn hah ha.

good luck with it all

alright everything is done, no leaks, everythings been double checked & tightened well. car seems to run great, however there is 1 thing that i am slightly concerned about, after about a min of running a light smoke comes from around the turbo area, i had it running for 10 mins like that & the temperature guage did not move past half way. i was thinking about something 'mad082' said a while ago about disconnecting something & turning the engine over to get the oil into the turbo lines before actually starting the car, how do i do this? i cant find the post for the life of me.. cheers.

cars still running alright, smokes dissapeared completely, it gets hot allot quicker but never goes over half way, there is one thing thats annoying me when i slow down for an intersection go to third then second then turn, sometimes it stalls like i can have my clutch all the way in and the car shuts off & i turn the key to restart whilst still rolling and continue on in 2nd gear, also the other day when i first drove it after i put the turbo in it was possible to change gears without the blow off valve sounding (slight touch of boost), now i have to rev it right out because it runs really low revs for what speed im doing, for instance i sit on 2000 rpm or a tad under when im going 60 thats a really strange feeling to me.. possibly a tune?

i think he means full boost.

check for a vacuum leak somewhere in the cooler/inlet piping. also check the AAC valve guide in the DIY for the stalling issue, also clean your AFM.

the tune should be running back to normal now but try 'refreshing' the ECU;

disconnect the -ve terminal of the battery and pump your brakes for a good min or 2 till you're sure the car is completely drained of power. reconnect the terminal then take the car for a 'spirited' drive.

if that doesnt fix it then post up some more details of what its doing.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Kapr Haha yeah thats the one. I missed that you had a built up engine, I wouldn't want to run it on there either then. It was good in my situation just to replace the original turbo on a stock engine. @MBS206Yep definitely not a replacement for anything name brand
    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
×
×
  • Create New...