Jump to content
SAU Community

Car wont boost, feels like standard 6

Eav00l

By Eav00l,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Eav00l Proficient

Eav00l

Posted
Posted

Took my car to E&M to get some head bolts replaced as they snapped off whle i was driving.

took it there with that and another problem, clutch fely like it was on its way out,

Took it there with the clutch on it way out (3 months it will be dead so not too bad)

they replaced the head bolts and tested the clutch.

Got it back last night and now it just wont hit boost, the RPM stays at the same incline and doesnt incdrease when it should hit boost.

It feels very sluggish and i have checked all vacum lines and boost controller lines.

When i was picking car up the guy was fidling with the BOV ( allen key bolt at the top) now also the BOV is not any where near as loud as it w2as before i took it there and the car runs like s**T,

I had a huge argument on the fone last night with the salemen and he reckons i need a dyno tune, how do u tune a standard computer?

Also he rekons that they did nothing to the car, i said to him i took it there with a minor clutch prombel and snapped head bolts, i understanmd that they cannont fix clutch but head bolts yes, and i drove it away running like a standard 6, argueded with this guy saying that i took it there workiong and drove it awasy running like crap, i dont spend $25 g on a car and expect it to run like this, he kept saying nothing i can do u need a dyno tune, i said im not spending hundreds of dollars on something that u guys have stuffed,

im really getting pisse3d at these guys, i am going to ru=ing the dept of fair trading about another issue i have with them but thats another story.

can any one offer any ideas on whjat problems mght be?

Mods

BOV

Pod air filter

Boost controller 7&14psi

Fuel cut defender

Thx Craig

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/30138-car-wont-boost-feels-like-standard-6/
Share on other sites
JimX Grand Master

JimX

Posted
Posted

Yeah, the mechanic is a moron, trying to pass the buck. I would cut my losses and just take the car to someone that knows what they're doing. I don't think there's much point in "forcing" the original mechanic to fix the problem, more than likely he'll end up doing more damage to the car and not fixing the original problem.

If you can get a more reputable mechanic to have a look at what's happened, and write out a report that indicates that the first mechanic was to blame, you should be able to send it to him along with a letter of demand of a refund plus expenses for your wasted time. If he refuses to pay, take him to small claims court. You should win easily.

Steve Grand Master

Steve

Posted
Posted

To get the car paid for by someone else, you need to prove they stuffed the car, which will be hard. It is good that you post up to let others know of your woes, and hopefully they wont share your experiences.

I have had a similar problem with an intake plenum that I bought. I can either throw it in the bin, or get it fixed myself and try and sell it.

If this guy was playing with your bov, that is the first place I would be looking. If a BOV is too loosely adjusted, it will leak at even low boost pressure, which may be the case in your instance.

Try tensioning it up several turns, then test it is holding by reving the car (around 4k or so should be enough) and listening for the air reverting through the turbo (fluttering noise). Once you are here, just back off the valve adjustment until it just starts to lift.

If it was a vacuum leak, I would expect that idle would be really really poor, so I doubt that is the problem.

Failing that, all I can suggest is take the car to a mechanic with a decent reputation.

DJ984 Mentor

DJ984

Posted
Posted

Damn... I'm getting a Major service done on my car tomorrow and i keep hearing these bad things from everyone... I already know the guys where i bought the car (who do the servicing as a part of warranty) like to dig into your pockets but I hope my baby will be ok in their hands...:D

Eav00l Proficient

Eav00l

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I rang dept of fair trading about the problem witht he clutch and all these issues iom having,

they said that it does not matter what part is faulty it is part of the car and that it is under that warranty,

So i can now take it back to the dealer and get themn to fix it or i can put in a comnplaint and the Dept of fair trading will havdle it

meshmesh Mentor

meshmesh

Posted
Posted
I rang dept of fair trading about the problem witht he clutch and all these issues iom having,

they said that it does not matter what part is faulty it is part of the car and that it is under that warranty,

So i can now take it back to the dealer and get themn to fix it or i can put in a comnplaint and the Dept of fair trading will havdle it

Hi Eav00l,

In Victoria we a something called the "Small Claims Tribunial", costs you around $5-10 to lodge a hearing... See if you guys have one in NSW.

Something similar happened to a friend, & as advised, rather than send the car back to the inital service centre who stuffed it up, we had an independent mechanic check the car out, which he determined was a cause of the initalial mechanic putting down in writing. We then asked for him to fix the car. Prior to this, it is probably best you see if the initial centre will attempt to fix the problem. In your case they obviously deny it.

So after we got the car fixed by the independent mechanic, we notified the initial mechanic who stuffed it up that we were about to take them to court "being the Small Claims Tribunial" & we would only stop the action if they agreed to pay the bill from the independant mechanic. A couple of issues you may want to raise is that time is $$ to the mechanic, and being in court will take up most of the day...

In our case we won, & had all the costs paid for. Since then the mechanic has closed and nowhere to be seen.

Hope that helps.

meshmesh

Eav00l Proficient

Eav00l

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Joel, yea it is but its fixed now,

i had a few mates look at it on the weekend and the idiots at the dealers snapped 2 bolts and didnt connect 2 vacum hoses and the pipe that goes from the plenum over the head, IDIOTS........

thanks for all your help

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • tylink720
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By tylink720 · Posted

      @Kapr Haha yeah thats the one. I missed that you had a built up engine, I wouldn't want to run it on there either then. It was good in my situation just to replace the original turbo on a stock engine. @MBS206Yep definitely not a replacement for anything name brand
    • Kapr
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By Kapr · Posted

      You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • Watermouse
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By Watermouse · Posted

      https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • Kinkstaah
      Airbox for +T

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • GTSBoy
      Airbox for +T

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
×
×
  • Create New...