Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey, tommorrow im finaly gunna get some ICE :P (new sound system) :D

And i was just wondering if is should amp my speakers, heres what im getting : all full alpine :ermm:

-Head Unit CDA-9886.

-Front splits SPR-17S TYPE-R 6.5" COMPONENT SPEAKERS

-Rear 6's SPR-17C TYPE R 6.5" COAXIAL SPEAKERS.

-12 INCH SUB, SWR-1222D TYPE-R 12" SUBWOOFER

-AMP FOR SUB, MRP-M1000 V-POWER MONO AMPLIFIER

And if i amp the speakers which i think i am it would be :

-MRP-F600 V-POWER 4/3/2 CH AMPLIFIER.

Is it a good idea to amp my speakers? like and extra 500 or so doesnt matter, and if im spending what i am it would be best to amp the speakers to get the most out of the system, would you agree?

also theres a new thing that plugs into the headunit (at the back) which ads like 65 rms to each speaker for 200$, dont relaly know much about it...

i have a JVC headunit, rockford fosgate 6.5 inch splits front and 6.5 inch coax rears. Doors fully lined with dynamat and all hooked up to a sony 4 channel amp. TO be honest i dont need a sub with that set up.

So my 2c is that YES YES get a amp for your speakers, as then they wont get drowned out by your sub and if youre paying for good speakers you may as well show their potential with an amp; but also GET DYNAMAT, makes R33 doors sound SO much better.

i have a JVC headunit, rockford fosgate 6.5 inch splits front and 6.5 inch coax rears. Doors fully lined with dynamat and all hooked up to a sony 4 channel amp. TO be honest i dont need a sub with that set up.

So my 2c is that YES YES get a amp for your speakers, as then they wont get drowned out by your sub and if youre paying for good speakers you may as well show their potential with an amp; but also GET DYNAMAT, makes R33 doors sound SO much better.

Thanks mate :D

yeah that what i though, might as well get the most out of it :P

dynamat.. now is that worth it?:ermm: ta

Definately need an amp, personally i would not bother about rear speakers though, i have focal splits front and rear and when i turn the rears off there is no difference.

If i was you i would go for a good 4 chan amp. run the fronts off 2 chans and bridge the other 2 for the sub.

why even bother putting type r splits without an amplifier? clearly states on the box that they're 110wrms..

alpine also do a package that comes with splits + 6x9's + amp for about 300 off retail.. i swap the 6x9's for customers all the time.

why even bother putting type r splits without an amplifier? clearly states on the box that they're 110wrms..

alpine also do a package that comes with splits + 6x9's + amp for about 300 off retail.. i swap the 6x9's for customers all the time.

Maybe its just me but i think 6x9's are a poor mans sub that will never match a small 10" sub let alone a decent 12".

Step 1. Pull out rear speakers

Step 2. Dynamat, you don't need loads of it to make a huge difference

Step 3. Amp front splits

Rear speakers are almost always a waste of money, and stuff up the imaging of your front stage, unless you really enjoy sitting in the back of your car whilst driving, ditch the speakers and leave the holes empty. You will find you have heaps more bass in the cabin from the subbass in the boot having an unimpeded path to you.

cheers,

Jesse

Hey, system went in a few days ago, its really good :D amp'd and all, now only problem is sorting our the rattles. lol..

you know the "skyline" centre between the taillights, well bass shook two of the four nuts off, one each side.. but i couldnt be happier :)

Hey, system went in a few days ago, its really good :D amp'd and all, now only problem is sorting our the rattles. lol..

you know the "skyline" centre between the taillights, well bass shook two of the four nuts off, one each side.. but i couldnt be happier :)

A tiny bit of lock tight will hold them on, as for other rattles, you just have to go looking for them, some might be loose bolts or fittings some will just be parts rubbing or hitting, try some foam under some bits others try something like sika flex to attach the part properly.

A tiny bit of lock tight will hold them on, as for other rattles, you just have to go looking for them, some might be loose bolts or fittings some will just be parts rubbing or hitting, try some foam under some bits others try something like sika flex to attach the part properly.

its pretty much just my rear bar, but too unsure to put tension on it as it could stress and break?

its pretty much just my rear bar, but too unsure to put tension on it as it could stress and break?

Depends how much pressure you put on it, would take a lot to break it, find where it is rattling and just use a finger to push on it, if it stops you need to put some foam or something behind it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You just need to remove the compressor housing, not the entire turbo. I would not be drilling and tapping anything with the housing still on anyways. 
    • So, I put my boat on a boat. First of all, I'm going to come out and say it. Why is Tasmania not considered a holy goal, an apex that all road-legal modified cars go to, to experience? This place is an absolute wonderland of titanic proportions. If people are already getting club runs for once in a lifetime 30 person cruises to Tassy then I've never seemed to see it. It is like someone replaced the entire place with an idyllic wonderland for cars, and all of the people living there with paid actors who are kind, humble, and friendly. Dear god. After doing a lap of almost all of the place I've found that it's a great way to find out all of the little things that the car isn't doing quite right and a great way to figure it all out. All in all, I drove for 4 hours a day for a week and nothing broke. I didn't even need to open the engine bay. This is by all means a great success, but it has left me with a list of things to potentially address. I also now have a 3D printed wheel fitment tool which annoyingly hasn't got any threads in it to actually assemble it. I might be able to tape it together to check the sizing I actually want to use, but it'll likely involving pulling the shocks out to properly measure travel at least at the front, and probably raise the car while I'm at it, at least in the rear. I scraped on quite a few things and I'm not sure how else to go about it. I was taking anything with a bump at what felt like 89 degree angles. And address those 10 other tasks. And wash the car. God damn it is dirty. And somehow, the weather was perfect the entire time - And because I was on the top of Mt Wellington it turns out it was very much about to freeze up there. I did something I typically never do and took some photos up there in what must have been -10 and the foggy felt like suspended ice, rather than mere fog. If you own a car in Australia, you owe it to yourself to do it.
    • Damn that was hilarious, and a bit embarrassing for skylines in general 😂 vintage car life ey. That R33 really stomped. Pretty entertaining stuff
    • Hi, I have a r32 gtr transmission. Does any of you guys have an idea how much power it will hold with the billet center plate and stock gearset? At what power level and use did yours brake with or without billet plate? Thanks, Oystein Lovik
    • Saw this replica police car based on a Mitsubishi Starion XX parked next to a 'police box' (it's literally a box) in Hirohata, Himeji City in Hyogo prefecture the other day. It's owned by Morii-san who is a local Mitsubishi Starion enthusiast. According to a local radio station blog post, he always wanted to make a police car himself based on ones he saw in his favourite Manga comics.  As it's illegal to modify a car to look like a police car and drive on the road, Morii-san tried many times to get permission from Aboshi police station headquarters nearby. They refused initially by after they got tired of that they granted him permission. However, the car can only be displayed on private property and obviously can't be registered as long as the police livery is present. The car was completed at a cost of 1.5 million yen (US$ 10,000) in addition to the car cost. A location was chosen outside Hirohata Police box where the car can easily been seen from the street. Morii-san has two other Starion road cars, both widebody GSR-VRs.
×
×
  • Create New...