Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

At the very least you should consider flushing it out with a mixture of kero and meths and per SK's instructions:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...age-t69501.html

At the very least you should consider flushing it out with a mixture of kero and meths and per SK's instructions:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...age-t69501.html

did that on three coolers :wub: works great

yeah but i wanted to pull it apart ....

the end tanks are held on by all the "tags" you can see around the end of the the core . there is an o ring and all the tabs bend over a lip on the end tank . the tags are still in place on one side of both ends with the other 3 sides bent back . same as a radiator with plastic end tanks

ps my car has had a front mount on it for about a year . this is my door stop even tho there is nothing wrong with it

Edited by lachlanw

when i was replacing the motor in our s1 i sent the intercooler off to be cleaned with the radiator, there were peices of metal in mine, along with about 200ml's of thick black goopy oil, glad i done it!!

we later found out it had a second hand turbo on it about 3 months before we brought it, so i wonder it if it was turbo bits in there,

  • 3 weeks later...
when i was replacing the motor in our s1 i sent the intercooler off to be cleaned with the radiator, there were peices of metal in mine, along with about 200ml's of thick black goopy oil, glad i done it!!

we later found out it had a second hand turbo on it about 3 months before we brought it, so i wonder it if it was turbo bits in there,

i think the girl's has the same thing. when we did the fmic, we would have got about 15ml of thick black oil out of the old smic (as in, 15ml dripped out of it, that's not counting the shit that's still inside there). will be interested to see what the fmic is like in a month or two.

Edited by pyro-ns
wow what a suprise NOT, what did you think would be in their lmao

god and i thought i posted some retarded un needed posts

my fmic is like brand new inside . fitted greddy catch can at same time . after a year i opened the catch can and there was not even enough oil film to make a drip .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • CTIS (Central Tire Inflation System) has existed since the 80's. I'm looking into buying a Hummer H1 and they generally included it. 
    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
    • It's most likely the bolt/bush where the cover bolts back wore and allowed cover to move forward.
    • Still haven't put the injectors and R35 AFM in so we can tune the bloody thing for the HG highflow it got mid last year! I think I can forecast the upgrade path to a bigger twin scroll, external gate, Haltech, flex setup, Samsonas, dis dat, etc will be .... a while away!
×
×
  • Create New...