Jump to content
SAU Community

Master Cylinder Fixed - I HAVE BRAKES !!

benm
 Share

Recommended Posts

benm Grand Master

benm

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Rewards to anyone that can find the solution (no I aint kidding).

My mechanic said that if it still wasn't right after today that he would have it for another day to pull apart the master cylinder again and check that everything is doing what it is sposed to do.

GTR R35 Proficient

GTR R35

Posted
Posted

i had a similar problem and the cause was the master cylinder was not put together wrong. one of the rubber seals was around the wrong way causing the fluid to bypass the first part of the piston, it had very similar problems to what you have described.

I would get them to check it out, they also may have pinched a seal when assembling.

Get them to pull the master cylinder apart again.

Ta

Mal

benm Grand Master

benm

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well the mechanics had my car again on Tuesday and then Thursday as well. They have had 3 different mechanics drive my car for quite afew km's and cannot find any problems with the pedal at all.

They want me to get an independant test done by NRMA ($250) to prove to me that the pedal/brake system is perfectly fine. If NRMA find a fault the mechanics are going to fix it and pay for the NRMA Inspection but if their is no fault found im stuck with a dud brake system and a bill for $250.

I'll be back at RaceBrakes sometime this week to get them to check and re-check everything that they did before I took it to this other workshop.

Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted

Ben, sorry to read you still havent got this sorted.

If the pedal has two different heights at which it is operating then that doesnt sound right, but keep in mind respective pedal heights when driving, think about the brake pedal height when you have dived on it, and look at its height relaitve to the accelerator for heel toeing.

I have driven a car with a very high brake pedal, day to day i though it was kinda cool, but when you try to heel and toe, the brake pedal is impossibly high, and the thing has a king of on/off feel to it.

So keep heel and toe in mind when you are looking at changing the brake pedal height...and good luck, ill include you in a few prayers this week. :D

benm Grand Master

benm

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well after another minor adjustment and then Roy taking it for abit of a spin last Saturday night (thanks heaps Roy) I spent the morning at Race Brakes and they couldn't fault it. The pedal feels good, I just need to get back on the track and really see what its like.

So it looks like its all over, now all I need is some track tyres :wassup:

benm Grand Master

benm

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Oh something else to add to the convo...

Greg at RaceBrakes said that the pedal in Skylines will initially feel soft (after turning corners) because of "pad knock back". This is when you turn a corner and the rotor pushes the caliper/pad/piston back as it moves. The cause of this is warn (or starting to wear) wheel bearings. Apparently the GTR Skylines are bad from the factory where as the GTS-t's take awhile for it to appear.

Was just talking to Kevin from GavSport (St Marys) and he said that they put 2psi springs in behind the pistons to force the pistons out instead of being pushed back. I might investigate this and see how it goes.

  • 2 months later...
benm Grand Master

benm

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Update....

Well brakes still are no where near adequate.

The brake shop that I have been getting most of this work done (over the last 6mths) have come to an agreement that they will refund the costs involved in bore/sleeve my Master Brake Cylinder when I have a new 1 fitted (at a different, more reputable workshop). After having my car for easily 10 days in the last 4mths they blatantly swear their are no issues at all with my brakes, I feel sorry for any mum or dad getting their brakes fixed at this workshop as their lives are in huge danger.

I'll be getting the master fitted sometime in the next week along with a fresh bottle of brake fluid (about the 50th litre in the last 12mths) and then I pray that I have no brake issues for the next 15yrs otherwise im gonna scream so loud that Perth SAU'rs will hear me :P

The new Master Cylinder was ordered from 'Hornsby Nissan' (Nissan Import Spare parts specialist) for $491 and took 1 week to be delivered to my door. The part # is 46010-75T02 and here are some pics (ok im bored!!)

master1.jpg

master2.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Slight brake pedal stutter after new pads

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Jack the back of the car up, pull that wheel off, pull that sensor out, and put a bore scope into the hole to inspect the outer casing, see if anything looks damaged before you pull the whole thing apart.
    • PranK
      Slight brake pedal stutter after new pads

      By PranK · Posted

      Ergh... So I pulled the speed sensor out again and the tip was shiny so I think it's rubbing the bearing. The bearing contains the magnets for the speed sensor so I think when the first sensor broke it damaged the magnet ring on the bearing.  This is just a Google image, but there is a hole going to the bearing. So when the tip broke off the old sensor I'm guessing it fouled the bearing... As the magnet is only protected by a plastic cover it would be easy to damage it. So I guess I'm doing a bearing again.   
    • GTSBoy
      Unknown sound similar to BOV on positive boost with partial throttle RB26

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      My thinking is that if the O2 sensor is shot then your entire above described experience is pure placebo.
    • silviaz
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By silviaz · Posted

      Here is the mess that I made. That filler there was successful in filling dents in that area. But in the middle area. I can feel dents. And I've gone ocer it multiple times with filler. And the filler is no longer there because i accidently sanded it away. I've chased my tail on this job but this is something else lol. So I'm gonna attempt filler one more time and if it doesn't work I'll just high fill primer the door and see where the issues are because guidecoat is of no use atm.
    • silviaz
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By silviaz · Posted

      Ok, so I think I sort of figured out where I went wrong. So I definitely overthinked it, and I over sanded, which is probably a large part of the problem. to fix it, I ended up tapping some spots that were likely to be high, made them low, filled them in, and I tackled small sections at a time, and it feels a lot better.    I think what confused me as well is you have the bare metal, and some spots darker and some are lighter, and when I run my finger across it, it' would feel like it's a low spot, but I think it's just a transition in different texture from metal to body filler.    When your finger's sliding on the body filler, and crosses over to the bare metal, going back and forth, it feels like it's a low spot. So I kept putting filler there and sanding, but I think it was just a transition in texture, nothing to do with the low or high spot. But the panel's feels a lot better, and I'm just going to end up priming it, and then I'll block it after with guide coat.   Ended up wasting just about all of my filler on this damn door lol  
×
×
  • Create New...