Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

when i go to accelerate from either a standing start or between gears the car hesitates, goes lean and kind of sputters a bit then goes back to normal. if i accelerate SLOWLY it doesnt do it, and when i accelerate HARD it doesnt do it, im not sure what it is. i tried checking for leaks in the vac/cooler system with no luck.

i took a vid to see if it would help identify the problem. the gauge on the left is the wideband and you can see the pressure/vac/accelerator position on the gauge on the right.. turn up your volume so you can hear what the car is doing.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xPHSLI50Kd4

cheers guys

Edited by SECURITY
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/301603-almost-stalling-on-acceleration/
Share on other sites

well unless he has wired the wideband backwards or some crap, it's definately going lean...

It is a tough one! Maybe there's a small block in one of the injectors? Or the pump isn't getting enough voltage or something? Other then that... I was thinking a stuck throttle body but that wouldn't lean it out...

sorry, shouldve given a run down on the car

its got a vipec ecu, it does it under any load, i tried changing the tune around (the vipec has a 1-100 range) i went from 42 in the cells up to 60 and it didnt change much, im pretty sure its a mechanical issue.

well unless he has wired the wideband backwards or some crap, it's definately going lean...

It is a tough one! Maybe there's a small block in one of the injectors? Or the pump isn't getting enough voltage or something? Other then that... I was thinking a stuck throttle body but that wouldn't lean it out...

My mistake...I didnt see the AFR ratio thing on the left...Definately sounds like some kind of fuel issue. Highly doubt its ignition ( although I could be wrong )....Has anything been done to the car recently ..like prior to this problem occuring ?...Maybe a vacuum line got knocked loose

Edited by GTR-32U
Not sure about the vipec ecu but I had a similar problem on my VH41de safari running a link ecu, it turned out to be an acceleration enrichment issue.

i think you might be on to something, ill have a play around with the accel enrichment tables and see where it gets me.

when i go to accelerate from either a standing start or between gears the car hesitates, goes lean and kind of sputters a bit then goes back to normal. if i accelerate SLOWLY it doesnt do it, and when i accelerate HARD it doesnt do it, im not sure what it is. i tried checking for leaks in the vac/cooler system with no luck.

i took a vid to see if it would help identify the problem. the gauge on the left is the wideband and you can see the pressure/vac/accelerator position on the gauge on the right.. turn up your volume so you can hear what the car is doing.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xPHSLI50Kd4

cheers guys

accel pump adjustment

this car has not been tuned yet has it?

not properly, i had it on a dyno after the engine was rebuilt by the engine builder but the new injectors and plenum havent been tuned in properly. i got it running pretty well using the auto tune and the m5, but this problem just started randomly though.

the accel enrichment didnt work. it didnt change at all. i think its something mechanical rather than the tune.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can u check this way it works for power supply?
    • These coils draw 10amps that what i read online
    • I appreciate the detailed explanation, think I understand now. I spent the better part of last night reading what I could about shuffle and potential solutions. I had replaced the OEM twin turbo pipe with an alternate Y pipe that is separated further away from the turbo. The current one is from HKS and I had a previous pipe that was separated even further away, both have shuffle. I had heard that a divider can be welded in to the OEM pipe to remove turbulence, and figure that aftermarket pipes that are more separated would achieve the same thing. From what I read, most people with -10 turbos get shuffle due to their size, though it's a bit less common with -5s on a standard RB26. I think Nismoid mentioned somewhere it's because OEM recirculation piping is common in Australia with -5 cars. It seems that the recommendation tends to vary between a few options, which I've ordered in what I think is most feasible for me:  1. Retune the MAP or boost controller to try to eliminate shuffle 2. Install OEM recirculation piping 3. Something called a 'balance pipe' welded onto the exhaust manifolds. I don't know if kits for this are available, seems like pure fabrication work 4. simply go single turbo My current layout is as follows: Garrett 2860 -5s HKS Racing Suction intake MAF delete pipes HKS racing chamber intake piping hard intercooler piping,  ARC intercooler HKS SSQV BOV and pipe Haltech 2500 elite ECU and boost solenoid/controller HPI dump pipes OEM exhaust manifolds HKS VCAM step 1 and supporting head modifications Built 2.6 bottom end All OEM recirculation piping was removed, relevant areas sealed off I'll keep an eye out for any alternative solutions but can get started with this.  Only other question is, does shuffle harm the turbo (or anything else)? It seems like some people say your turbo shafts will explode because of the opposing forces after a while and others say they just live with it and adjust their pedal foot accordingly. 
    • That worked out PERFECTLY! Thank you big time to JJ. He was able to swap me his stock diff. He drove all the way to me as well. Killer! Removal & install was pretty straightforward. The diff itself is HEAVY. So that’s a 2 man job.  Man does the car drive nice now! Couldn’t have worked out any better 👌
×
×
  • Create New...