Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys i wanna get some things re sprayed on my car if anyone noes a good place or even a person that can do it for a good price iv been quoted to much for things i need just my side skirts and a front bar to be fiberglassed and painted

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/301898-helpp-cheap-place-for-painting/
Share on other sites

as nismiod has stated, you get what you pay for.

i had sideskirts painted on my old car and they bubbled something shocking (was a cheapish job)

plus a bad paint job always looks bad, cant polish sh!t

^ those can be initial things... sup[er cheap jobs haha :/

However even with a job that "looks" good... Give it 18-24 months, bit of weather and so on.

That is when you start to tell the difference between a good job and a great job. Suddenly the paint isn't as "deep", the job becomes a tad dull etc.

Stuff that is very hard to pick when you look at the car everyday if it is your own car.

But a easy thing is to get another piece prepped/sprayed, chuck it in yor cupboard. Couple years later pull it out and have a compare :(

Another vote for DT Panels..

But a easy thing is to get another piece prepped/sprayed, chuck it in yor cupboard. Couple years later pull it out and have a compare :(

Possibly one of the stupidest things you've said/posted... :/

How so?

The test of time, a good prepped job, bodywork vs fade, be lacklustre and similar - IMO it would be the best possible test :D

After 2 yrs, all of a sudden your "wow" job that looked awesome on the first day, suddenly... a bit average.

Where a quality job, using quality materials "read:not fken cheap", will look virtually as good as the day it came off the gun.

How so?

The test of time, a good prepped job, bodywork vs fade, be lacklustre and similar - IMO it would be the best possible test :D

After 2 yrs, all of a sudden your "wow" job that looked awesome on the first day, suddenly... a bit average.

Where a quality job, using quality materials "read:not fken cheap", will look virtually as good as the day it came off the gun.

I was refferring more to the fact 1 piece (either the cheaper or more expensive) would be sitting in a cupboard, whereas the other is being used under completely different conditions (sun, rain etc etc)

Painting half the car (line down the middle) with the 2 differing paintjobs in the same color would be the ultimate test. At the end of the day, if shop X is offering decent work at $2k, and shop Y is offering great work at $6k, and you're getting a few years out of shop X, you're still in front if in fact it does need re-doing in a few years.

I'm not denying you'll get better quality for more money (generally speaking of course (the way I chose to modify my car shows where my opinion lies on that)) but a lot of people are interested in value for money, and someone like DT caters to that brilliantly imo :P

you can just get any old piece of ally metal :D

True - You're ultimate test point is far more correct than mine.

I also agree you would be infront in some respects if you re-sprayed every 3 years, upto 9yr marker as an example.

Depends what your budget is at the end of the day. If you want good work, and are prepared to pay for it - you do that.

DT certainly cater for the on-budget people, no question there either :P

DT have proven to be good and not expensive for a lot of people

Maybe try Patti Panels in Campbellfield.

HERE is what James did for me.

Please everyone. Don't turn this into another thread about quality always = massive dollars. There are enough of them in this section. We all know that the more you spend the better job you will get but show cars aren't always what people are after.

new joint i found in morrabbin - Paintwerks

Owner DEFINITELY knows his stuff. Had a good chat about detailing as well, of which he was also very clued in.

More than DT, but would be a step up as well. So if you're looking for that little something more, i'd hit them up for a quote.

There's a certain panel shop in footscray I'd avoid...

Totally agree. West Footscray to be exact. At the back of the shop to be even more exact.

As everybody had said, if you want a good job, be prepared to spend more money. If you are willing to pay little for an average job, be prepared for disappointments when you get your car back.

Micolour seems to be a place everyone recommends on SAU. You can also try Gals Panels at tullamarine OR if you can come up with more cash and if you want a perfect job, ring up File Finish http://www.filefinish.com.au/ . They do aston martins, bmws and lots of euro cars but i've seen gtrs in the shop before as well. It's entirely up to how deep your pocket is.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...