Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Gts4 Question

Jap4life
 Share

Recommended Posts

Jap4life Apprentice

Jap4life

Posted
Posted

Hey there,

I have a 1992 GTS4 but i am missing all the bolts for the diff to the half shafts.

Finding parts for GTS4s where I am is hard and I havnt found anything with same bolt pattern.

I was wondering whether the bolts from any viscous LSD to half shafts from Laurel, Cefiro or GTST or whatever, will fit fine even if the bolt pattern is different? Obviously I will need more of them but will they bolt in fine. Im hoping they will because it will make life easier for me :)

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/302188-r32-gts4-question/
Share on other sites
-Jimmy- Mentor

-Jimmy-

Posted
Posted (edited)

I ended up having to buy the nuts and bolts directly from Nissan, it cost me $77 :)

If you are talking about the 6 bolt and 5 bolt pattern's bolts being the same diameter, I wouldn't want to be assuming they are the same. They very well could be but I have to tell you, you want a snug fit when dealing with these moving parts.

The previous owner of my car put slightly smaller diamter bolts into the halfshafts from the drive axles, and eventually there was too much play in the two components, and the bolts gave way and my driveshaft fell from the car while I was driving.\

Any other questions just ask, and sometimes it's easier to chuck some pics up too. GTS-4 is probably different to the GTS-t stuff I've been dealing with. How many bolt are you half shafts and axles, and is it just the nuts and bolts that you need?

Edited by -Jimmy-
The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted

Yeah ^^

It is better to buy new ones like he said. The bolts act as locating studs also so they are not something you can just buy off the shelf. I think you are also right about the 5stud vs 6stud axles having different sizes. The more I think about it, the more I think that is, in fact, the case.

Jap4life Apprentice

Jap4life

Posted
  • Author
Posted

oh ok yeah Im thinking of the half shafts to drive shaft nuts and bolts.

I went to Nissan and they told me it would be worth going to Nisbits which stock the most Nissan secondhand parts in nz, but Nisbits are useless as hell and they didnt help me at all.

The guy i bought the car off had bought a whole lot of bolts from the local hardware store but luckily he didnt get around to reinstalling the diff or im thinking it would have ended in chaos.

Im thinking about getting a few bolts and checking them for fitment and if they aren't perfect then I will have to explore other options.

Its just the nuts and bolts that i need.

DSC00559.jpg

Here is a picture. I checked my GTR manual and it seems even that has a different pattern. What will have the same pattern as my car?

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted

Get Nissan NZ to order them. They are just being lazy. It will only take 10 days to get them.

If that doesn't work, order them from Nissan Australia. +61 7 32907890 and get them to send them over.

If that doesn't work, let me know and I'll send them over.

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

It's a bolt! Possibly 8mm x 1.25 x 20mm. On my 32 GTS4, the bolts come in from the diff side, through the diff flange and screw into the axle / halfshaft flange.

You can't fit bolts that are too small! It either has the right size or it doesn't have the right size. Just make sure they are done up tightly and it should hold.

Jap4life Apprentice

Jap4life

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well found they are the same bolts as the ones from the front of the diff to the driveshaft and im hoping those are more generic?

I realise I need to find something HT and i was assuming anything from the drivetrain would be strong enough?

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted
Well found they are the same bolts as the ones from the front of the diff to the driveshaft and im hoping those are more generic?
On mine those are an Allen bolt.
I realise I need to find something HT and i was assuming anything from the drivetrain would be strong enough?
All I'm saying is that you don't need to source the bolts from Nissan. Any auto parts store or bolt supplier will have a bolt that will do the job. And there are no nuts involved.
fletch rb30 Enthusiast

fletch rb30

Posted
Posted

its an m8 or m10 cap screw. standard metric fine pitch.

Hold the cv together and measure the length of the bolt you need and add 10mm to it. then go through your pile of nissan bolts and find one that screws into the flange on the diff.

take this bolt and the length you need to a bolt shop. if your near east tamaki, go to bay engineering supplies and ask for D, tell her fletch sent you, and she will sort you out and give you a good price.

Jap4life Apprentice

Jap4life

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks bro will give that a go!

Rung up Nissan and in true nz style the guy told me he'd ring me back as soon as possible aka yeah yeah i might ring you back if i feel like it. Hahaha

Just a question, do i need to request a certain strength of the bolts or anything?

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted
Thanks bro will give that a go!

Rung up Nissan and in true nz style the guy told me he'd ring me back as soon as possible aka yeah yeah i might ring you back if i feel like it. Hahaha

Just a question, do i need to request a certain strength of the bolts or anything?

minimum 8.8 grade but aim for a 10. 12's will be socket head (cap head) which you can use but they are a pain in the arse.

Jap4life Apprentice

Jap4life

Posted
  • Author
Posted
its an m8 or m10 cap screw. standard metric fine pitch.

Everything is measured up but just wondering what the above means exactly :)

And how thick do you think the washers should be? In the workshop manual it looks like the half shaft bolts have washers.

I also need the nuts and bolts for the 4WD shaft and Ill go the same route for them too but i need nuts too

Thanks

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted
Ok got it now, M means metric, 10 means 10mm thread diameter and standard metric fine pitch is the thread pitch.

M10 fine is Metric 10mm x 1.25mm pitch

M10 standard is Metric 10mm x 1.5mm pitch

Coarse is 1.75

The pitch doesn't matter too much as you are getting nuts to suit but I would definitely go with a fine pitch with something like this...you don't want it to rattle loose, and try to get Nyloc nuts to suit it. Washer size doesn't matter, just make sure the bolt goes through 100% of the nut minimum.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • BaronOBeefdip
      Baron's R34 GT-R build thread - car in Japan for 5 years -_-

      By BaronOBeefdip · Posted

      Back again. I returned to Japan in Jul/Aug to spend time with the car on my birthday and remind myself what all the sacrifice and compromise is for. It happened to line up with the monthly morning meet in Okutama, which I have been wanting to go to for a long time. It's a unique event at a unique spot with really rare, interesting, and quirky cars. It's where all the oldheads and OGs gather. The nighttime scene at DKF certainly has its place and should be experienced if you're into cars, but there's too much bad attention and negativity around it now. IMO the better time is Sunday morning at DKF or Okutama; it's more chill and relaxed. I'm glad I was finally able to go, but not sure it's worth the drive from all the way from Nagoya immediately the day before, unless I was already staying in Tokyo for the days right before the meet, because you have to wake up quite early to make it in time. Funnily enough though I didn't drive the car all that much this trip because it was just too damn hot. While there were zero issues and running temps were nominal and the A/C was strong, RBs already run crazy hot as it is. Sure, it took it all like a champ but something about driving these cars in the ridiculous heat/humidity bothers me and makes me feel like I'm asking too much of it. I'm just me being weird and treating the car like a living thing with feelings; I'm mechanically sympathetic to a fault. Instead I was mainly driving something else around - a KX4(silver) 2001 X-Trail GT, that I acquired in May. There's a few different flavors to choose from with Xs, but visually it's the Nissan version of the Honda CR-V. Mechanically it's a whole different story as this, being the top-trim GT, has an SR20VET mated to a four-speed auto and full-time AWD! It was a very affordable buy in exceptional condition inside and out, with very low mileage...only 48k kms. Most likely it was owned by an older person who kept it garaged and well-maintained, so I'm really happy with how it all worked out. It literally needs zero attention at the moment, albeit except for some minor visual touch-ups. I wanted something quirky, interesting, and practical and for sure it handily delivers on all three of those aspects. I was immediately able to utilize the cargo and passenger capacity to its full extent. It's a lot of fun to drive and is quite punchy through 1st and 2nd. It's very unassuming -in the twisty bits it's a lot more composed than one would think at a glance- and it'll be even better once I get better tires on it(yes, it's an SUV but still a little boat-y for my liking). So...now I have two golden-era Nissans in silver. One sports car and one that does everything else; the perfect two-car solution I think👍 The rest of the trip...I was able to turn my stressed brain off and enjoy it, although I didn't quite get to do as much as I thought. I did some interesting things, met some interesting people, and happened into some interesting situations however, that's all for another post though only if people really want to know. Project-wise, I went back to Mine's again to discuss more plans and am hoping to wrap that up real soon; keep watching this space if that interests you. Additionally, while working in the tormenting sweatbox that is the warehouse, I was able to organize most of the myriad of parts that my friend is storing for me along with the cars, and the 34 has a nice little spot carved out for it: And since it can get so stupid hot in there, that made it all the more easy -after I was standing there looking at the car and said 'f**k it'- to finally remove all the damn gauges that have mostly been an eyesore all this time. Huzzah. The heat basically makes the adhesive backing on the gauge mounts more pliable to work with, so it was far less stressful getting this done. I didn't fully clean it up or chase the wiring though; that will happen once I have the car in closer possession. Another major reason to remove all that stuff is to give people less reasons to get in my car and steal s**t while it's being exported/imported when/if the time comes, which leads us to my next point... ...and that is even though it's time in Japan is technically almost up since it's a November car and the X would be coming in March, I'm still not entirely sure where my life and career is headed; I don't really know what the future looks like and where I'm going to end up. I feel there's a great deal of uncertainty with me and as a result of that, it feels like I'm at a crossroads moreso now than any point in my life thus far and there are some choices I need to make. Yes, I've had some years to consider things and prepare myself, however too much has happened in that time to maintain confidence and everything feels so up in the air; tenuous one might say. Simply put, there's just too much nonsense going on right now from multiple vectors. Admittedly, I'm struggling to stay in the game and keep my eyes on the prize. So much so in fact, that very recently I came the closest I ever have before to calling it quits outright; selling everything and moving on and not looking back. The astute among you will pick up on key subtext within this paragraph. In the meantime I've still managed to slowly acquire some final bits for the car, but it feels nice knowing there's not much left to get and I'm almost across that finish line; I have almost everything I'll ever want for my interpretation and expression on what it is I think an R34 should be. 'til later.
    • Bwagz
      Engine model

      By Bwagz · Posted

      Thanks for that, hadn’t used my brain enough to think about that. 
    • MBS206
      R33 GTR running -9 with no tune

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Also playing with fire if they start to flow more air down low than what the stock twins can. It's not even up top you need to worry, it can be at 3000rpm and part throttle and it's getting way more flow than it should.
    • Piggaz
      Garrett G Series

      By Piggaz · Posted

      Any G40/1000 or G40/1250 results out there?  
    • joshuaho96
      R33 GTR running -9 with no tune

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      You still want a proper tune on the stock ECU though. Stock tune + stock ECU with GT-SS/-9s is probably playing with fire if you're running more than stock airflow/power.
×
×
  • Create New...