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R30 Standard Engine Improvements

Daewoo

By Daewoo,
in Classic & Vintage (1950's-1980's)

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Factory 5 Mentor

Factory 5

Posted
Posted

Another possible mod, a bit back yarder though.

a really basic water injection setup, that comes on when on WOT or near to.

ive seen a CA20e that could take another 5 deg of timing with water injection, basically a metal nozzle just in front of the throttle body. needs to be fairly misty, no droplets.

much used on turb setups too. but yeah this old gazelle hammered on the gravel and went heaps better with water!

Daewoo Enthusiast

Daewoo

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Posted

I will see if I get to that stage...

At the moment I have a Cresida AFM to fit up, which is about 25% bigger than standard, but I would need to modify the standard air box to make it fit, and then the pipe to the Throttle Body would fit either. (Outside diameter of the Cresida AFM is 80mm standard is about 73mm. So ia have asked the guy that sold me the AFM to put the whole airbox and inlet pipe aside for me.

Next step would be to upsize the Throttle Body and Injectors...

I keep coming back to the difference between the Std TB size and what we always used inthe webbers.

Std TB = 42mm diameter I think, so 42/2 *42/2 * 3.14 = 1384 mm2

Webbers = 6 x 36mm chokes = 36/2*36/2*3.14*6 = 6104 mm2 = more than 4 times the air flow...

Now I am not going to claim that the lack of breathing is the only reason the 240Z screems, and the MR30 doesn't, the extra 600kg might also have something to do with it, but I reckon there has to be something to make real gains...

Don't want to waste too much time trying to wring power out of the standard engine/EFI when it is only a matter of time before I get you over to help me drop in an RB30 - and then the RB25head and TURBO :thumbsup: ...

Cheers,

Darryl

Ghostrider Grand Master

Ghostrider

Posted
Posted
RB30 could be done in a day i reckon.

plus its probably cheaper than any mod to the L24e too!

To what gain in a Khanacross car that lives in the dirt & mud?

L24E rated @ 94kW & RB30E rated @ 114kW

A lot of effort for 20kW and probably only about 12 by the time it gets to the wheels.

If it was me, I would be looking at lower diff ratios, rather than more HP, maybe an 4.9:1 or similar like the front diff on an 720 ute. On dirt, your friendly arc welder would be better than an LSD and or L20ET gearbox, as it has lower ratio 1, 2, 3.

The good part about gearing is, nobody is ever going to know, as the bits look the same to the eye.

Cheers, D

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