Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

After a series of disasters with various tuning shops around Sydney I finally have a result with my r34 gtr ..

Attached is the dyno, 390kw, which is nice. But the big difference vs before..

1. it accumulates revs like a motorbike

2. It boosts in all the gears, even 1st which makes legal street driving fun if you want it to be.

3. It feels very eager below 3000

At 4000 rpm, it is doing 175kw, and is nearly @ 1 bar

At 5000 rpm, it is doing 330kw and has topped out at 24psi.

From 5000 to 8000 it is ridiculous.

Below 4000 rpm, the car feels much stronger than it did with the N1s @ 270kw (it should feel more laggy).

mods are..

A fairly stock bottom end (Racepace stage 2 motor) but with a big sump and pump

A bone stock head but with basic hks v-cam on the inlet and a fat cam on the exhaust

Nismo twin plate clutch

2530kai

big injectors

direct wired but stock fuel pump

N1 manifolds

Nismo weldina exhaust

fatter intercooler

HKS knock monitor

HKS f-con vpro (MAP) piggy back the nismo ecu

HKS boost controller with A=19psi (the lower line) and B=24psi

Tunehouse charged quite reasonably for the tune, they had to obtain japanese software from a visiting HKS dignitary in order to fully program the v-cam map as the controller alone only allows a low-res map. I think it was the first v-cam they had seen.

Considering the mess the tune was in, uncertain state of the mods, etc, Jim @ tunehouse didn't take advantage of the situation.

His shop at Marrickville is like a forensic lab!

post-51561-1262582648_thumb.jpg

Edited by moneypit
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/302434-another-v-cam-result/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

So no before/after?

there were several before so I didn't know what to post.

The before @ tunehouse was with the crap tune, but same mechanicals.

before, as in, when I got the car from Japan, I posted previously in the 2.6

results topic:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/po...194154-DYNO.jpg

Always confuses me with X axis in KPH but the power band, 1.3 bar,

was from 235 to 265kw. CRD said they could fatten the mid range

a bit with adjustable sprockets, power fc.

but now power band is from 325 to 390kw, starts sooner, and is higher

everywhere.

Edited by moneypit
We are doing a RB 2.8 Vcam with a Haltech Platinum Pro Plugin ECU. Vcam Uses Nissan VQ control valve and Cam position sensor and as Haltech have 350Z and R35 Plugins they know how to use them. Makes for very Good Cam control.

I'd like to see a locally developed V-Cam style product developed. There is a fairly large market base in Aus for such a device to suit a 26 head. The only reason I havn't got one yet is because of the price and difficulty to set up in Aus.

Any takers?

J.

any info about your 2530kai turbos are they supposed to produce more power at the same sort of response as normal 2530's, any photos?

Sorry to be off topic but you must be one of the few people in australia to have these i didn't even know if they were in production yet no-one really seems to know much about them outside of japan

any info about your 2530kai turbos are they supposed to produce more power at the same sort of response as normal 2530's

No idea. I was assuming they were basically the same as the 2860-5s, if they have been modified by HKS for better response I'm ok with that :D

I know there have been 2 prior variations of the 2530, prior to the -kai. Hopefully they get better each time.

attached is a picture of the R1 (some N1 variant) that came out, and the ones that went in. They sure don't look much different in size (n1 and 2530)

edit: looking at the picture again, I now doubt it is the -kai version. I think they are just regular 2530s !

the pictures online of the 2530kai show the housing with a big GT stamping, and a shiny placard.

post-51561-1262650114_thumb.jpg

post-51561-1262650123_thumb.jpg

Edited by moneypit
I'd like to see a locally developed V-Cam style product developed. There is a fairly large market base in Aus for such a device to suit a 26 head. The only reason I havn't got one yet is because of the price and difficulty to set up in Aus.

Any takers?

J.

Garage101 have a prototype already. www.imports101.com.au Email Danny for details.

I'd like to see a locally developed V-Cam style product developed. There is a fairly large market base in Aus for such a device to suit a 26 head. The only reason I havn't got one yet is because of the price and difficulty to set up in Aus.

Any takers?

J.

Haha , i've been thinking about this for years why someone had not adapted a vct module off a newer car onto the 26 cams.... both intake AND exhaust.....

Thanks for the link... i shall have a looksee.

ShaneF , would this be something up your alley ?

Gary

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...