Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just wondering what you'd recommend for a 235 40 18 and 16's which I think are about a 205.

Car grips up in 2nd and I think it's a combination of tyre pressure and stock power.

As for the power side of things, I'm putting a 14psi actuator on it later this week which should

assist breaking traction.

All input greatly appreciated !

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/302664-drifting-tyre-pressure/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 8 months later...
Definitely use the smaller tyre/rim and upping the pressure to 40psi or even 45psi, others run even higher if you're keen. Is your diff single spinning?

i put on 50 to 60 psi on my 17" 215 45.. :)

its a sunny hot day...

on wet i put on lyk 45

if its still gripping try to put more camber at the rear.. and it creates more smoke too ;)

go faster

+1 go faster = win

i put on 50 to 60 psi on my 17" 215 45.. smile.gif

its a sunny hot day...

on wet i put on lyk 45

if its still gripping try to put more camber at the rear.. and it creates more smoke too biggrin.gif

60psi wtf lol, way to much

on a RB25 with basic mods (FMIC, fuel pump, more boost) u shouldnt have any issues at mallala getting the wheels to spin unless u run crazy good tyres

I just went drifting at Winton and my 16 225 tyres at 36 psi had no problem breaking traction in my non turbo Supra. I didn't even need to clutch kick or handbrake, I could just mash the throttle around a corner and it would kick out.

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...

The best way to work out where your tyre pressure is and where it should be is to look at your tyres when they come off the car, this will give you and indication of how your set up is also.

Try to set the pressure's cold, do some runs, check the hot pressures and then look at the tyre, it should show even wear across the whole tyre, too much in the centre = too high pressure.

Don't be afraid of low pressures, at Eastern Creek turn 4-12 circuit at night we start at 29 degrees and work down from there. :)

Hope this helps and...

Stay Sidewayz Kidz!

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
    • Dang, those BBS are so nice! 
×
×
  • Create New...