Jump to content
SAU Community

Turbo Water Lines

l_uk3y

By l_uk3y,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

l_uk3y Proficient

l_uk3y

Posted
Posted

Hey guys.

Just wondering if anybody knows what sort of temperature I should be prepared for when reconnecting turbo water lines back together with a non metal section of tube (Just a short piece to use as a joiner). I have fuel hose at home rated to 150 degrees that I can also add a heat shield around to assist. It wont be resting up against the turbo. But will obviously be in the vicinity of the turbo and dump pipe.

Any ideas if my fuel hose rated at 150 degrees should be up to the task of running coolant for a very short section around the turbo?

Cheers. Luke

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/302856-turbo-water-lines/
Share on other sites
T04GTR Grand Master

T04GTR

Posted
Posted

ANY synthetic hose apart from teflon will melt. if it doesnt melt it will get very brittle.

best thing to do is to get some heat sleave ($100/m) and put some "fire foil" over it. basicly just insulate the shit out of it.

it would be better to change them all to teflon braided hose. abit expencive but you wont have to worry about them braking 300km from home..

wlspn Proficient

wlspn

Posted
Posted

I have Aeroquip hoses for coolant in & out of my turbo. They are rubber(ish) but have a huge temperature rating. Have had these right next to the turbo unshielded for years & they are still the same as the day I bought them...

geraus Mentor

geraus

Posted
Posted

hey dude, not sure about the temp but i know the custimized turbo rubber hose joiner i made has lasted me for about 6months and no problems! i've given it a hard time and its still not broken! even on my mates VL's

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      I have more than enough digging, laying blocks, moving gravel, airrating, feeding and top soiling the grass, and setting up the veggie gardens growing some seedlings,  and then removing all the unused rock to keep me busy for the next few months at least,  hopefully the rain stops soon so I can get a few hours in this arvo, but, before that Sunday is washing day, is every body happy, you bet your life we are Nice country road day drives are a day off whenever I'm muscle sore from all the landscaping at the moment, but, more epic multiple day drives will start once the majority of the big jobs outside are completed
    • MBS206
      NC MX5

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I hear that would involve some nice country road drives into the hills for Mark...
    • MBS206
      Recommendation for engine oil funnel spill free

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I thought I'd come back and add something I JUST learned. A Toyota LandCruiser with a 1HZ, mates perfectly with a bottle of Nulon brake fluid. As in, it perfectly screws in. Great make shift funnel when you cut the bottom of it off. This may work for your Corolla.   Unfortunately, tipping a 10L drum is much harder than a 4 to 6L bottle, and they no longer include the easy pour tap which was just perfection to use previously.  
    • EndZee
      Fuel Pump Control Module & Dropping Resistor

      By EndZee · Posted

      Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
    • Duncan
      M35 Brake caliper replacement

      By Duncan · Posted

      You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
×
×
  • Create New...