Jump to content
SAU Community

Too much boost?

Ash

By Ash,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Ash Grand Master

Ash

Posted
Posted

Hi,

i have a pod filter, CAI, BOV and turbo back exhaust, at the moment my EBC is set to 8.7 psi low boost and 11.6psi high boost, my question is, is this too much boost for stock turbo and stock intercooler?

i dont want to blow my turbo as i can not afford a new one, and it will be some time until i can afford a FMIC.

when i searched people were saying the most they would run is 9psi and others were saying 1bar. thats a huge difference. also some people had FMIC's and others didn't etc...

Thanks!

Ash.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/30298-too-much-boost/
Share on other sites
B-Man Grand Master

B-Man

Posted
Posted

Ash - buy my GTR FMIC off me - good deal for you bro ! Then you can run 12PSI no probes cuz !

I wouldn't run more then 10 PSI with stock cooler -

Put a thermocouple on youe plenum see what sort of temps you are running - anything over 40-42 deg and I would be turning down the boost !

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/30298-too-much-boost/#findComment-614821
Share on other sites
Kinks Grand Master

Kinks

Posted
Posted

Plenums are always hot from the engine tho??

I just threw a little temp sensor into the 31 and have the sensor tucked into a join between the crossover pipe and metal piping to the FMIC. Should give decent readings from there, will have to see what results I get tomorrow.. :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/30298-too-much-boost/#findComment-614886
Share on other sites
B-Man Grand Master

B-Man

Posted
Posted

Geoff,

I've just put a temp sensor on top of my plenum at the front - I think it is a good 'indication' of what is happening. Eg When driving , intercooler is working and temp sensor reads between 35-38 deg (when is what I expected) - At idle heatsoak sets and temp goes up to 45 deg. Start driving and temp goes back down.

My new cooler goes on today, so I should see a decent step down from 38 deg

It's really just a backyard test - but it seems to work OK.

Of course you could get more techncial about it - but for the $20 from Jaycar and the 5 mins it took to install - I'm happy !

Cheers,

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/30298-too-much-boost/#findComment-614991
Share on other sites
Merli Grand Master

Merli

Posted
Posted

Brendan, that would be eleventy billion times more useful if you actually put the thermocouple INSIDE the plenum or just before the throttle body and measure the temperature of the intake air?

That would be a much better indication of whether or not your intercooler is doing a sufficient job, and comparisons can be made with ambient air temperature to see exactly how much above ambient you're feeding your engine!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/30298-too-much-boost/#findComment-615037
Share on other sites
Kinks Grand Master

Kinks

Posted
Posted

It would be more accurate and I considered it, but it's easier to strap something on the outside of a piece that changes temperature to get a rough idea, than it is to get a probe into the actual airstream. You then have to worry about sealing the hole properly and making sure nothing can drop off into the engine... and a 10 minute install where nothing can go wrong is easier!! :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/30298-too-much-boost/#findComment-615064
Share on other sites
B-Man Grand Master

B-Man

Posted
Posted

I agree Andrew, but like I said - it's a quick and dirty job - and you know what - it's better than nothing - which is what I had before.

I think you would find that there are only a couple of degrees in it - the biggest difference would be the time taken to register the correct temp - ie might take 30 secs or a minute for the external thermocuple to catch up - if you get my drift.

Anyway - another B-Man's backyard barometer :P ha ha ha

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/30298-too-much-boost/#findComment-615126
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...