Jump to content
SAU Community

Boost Gauge On Skyline R33

skylineGT
 Share

Recommended Posts

Jden Enthusiast

Jden

Posted
Posted
Have just purchased first skyline and i'm not sure if the boost gauge is reading right, it generally sits in the negative and only goes into positive boost when accelerating hard, is this normal?

That's what its supposed to do?

PM-R33 Grand Master

PM-R33

Posted
Posted (edited)
Have just purchased first skyline and i'm not sure if the boost gauge is reading right, it generally sits in the negative and only goes into positive boost when accelerating hard, is this normal?

That is the corect operation of a boost gauge. Under no load the intake pressure sits in a vacuum, demonstrated on the gauge as a negative pressure. Once the engine is under sufficient load and the turbo is "spooling" the pressure will go into a positive "boost" it will continue to climb until the wastegate cracks open and the boost will stabilise at a single value controlled by the wastegate/boost controller.

Have a read of this, good article to explain the basics.

http://www.howstuffworks.com/turbo.htm

Edited by PM-R33
skylineGT Rookie

skylineGT

Posted
  • Author
Posted

k, cheers for that i also wanted to check just below and to the left of the steering wheel there is a screw with a black cap on it that dosen't seem to do any thing is that just for securing some sort of access panel?

gotRICE? Veteran

gotRICE?

Posted
Posted
another question, is it common for the exhaust manifold nuts on cylinders 1 and 6 to come loose/ fall off, and is there a special nut/washer type to stop this?

Totally normal.

Just kidding dude. Maybe the studs are broken so they arent staying tight?

Best thing to do would be to find new ones and just put them on tight.... tight tight. Maybe even some threadlocker?

S1LV3RTRACKS Community Regular

S1LV3RTRACKS

Posted
Posted
Standard gauge isn't the best. Check the line for it hasn't cracked as they tend to do. It comes off the intanke manifold near the firewall, it's a 4mm black rubber hose

I had this issue. The rubber hose becomes brittle and cracks appear which messes up the factory boost gauge. I had some 4mm rubber vacuum hose lying around which I installed and all is fixed with the gauge. Very easy to fix.

CatsEyes Enthusiast

CatsEyes

Posted
Posted
I had this issue. The rubber hose becomes brittle and cracks appear which messes up the factory boost gauge. I had some 4mm rubber vacuum hose lying around which I installed and all is fixed with the gauge. Very easy to fix.

Yep, I had the same trouble. That little hose just gets brittle with age. Also causes a vacuum leak, which harms the boost as well.

A few bucks worth of hose from Autobarn should do it!

  • 4 months later...
seriesII Mentor

seriesII

Posted
Posted
Standard gauge isn't the best. Check the line for it hasn't cracked as they tend to do. It comes off the intanke manifold near the firewall, it's a 4mm black rubber hose

hi.. thought i would post here.

this hose for the stock clusters boost gauge, has came off, its still connected to the manifold, but it has came off at the other end, i pulled it and it came from behind the drivers guard.. so while ive had my guard off today, i have been trying to reconnect this, but i cannot find anywere it goes?, can some one lend a hand to were this connects back.. thanx

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • perry_r33
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By perry_r33 · Posted

      Pm sent 
    • Robot
      Skyline v36 350GT sedan hunting on idle

      By Robot · Posted

      Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • MBS206
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • MBS206
      NC MX5

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
×
×
  • Create New...