Jump to content
SAU Community

Help

gebba54

By gebba54,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

gebba54 Collaborator

gebba54

Posted
Posted

Hey Guys,

just hoping someone might have some idea on a problem I'm having.

On holidays, jumped in the car this arvo and car wont start. Cranked a little at first then nothing.

Reds come on then nothing when I try and turn it over.

I can here the fuel pump prime.

I cant here any click from the solonoid and its a little hard to get to in the dark to try shorting it.

there have been a couple of times in the last week when it seemed slow to crank over, I tried to jump it but no go.

any help would be appreciated

cheers

Gerard

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/303139-help/
Share on other sites
gebba54 Collaborator

gebba54

Posted
  • Author
Posted
did it make clicking noises??

no clicking noise.

electrics do come on but no cranking.

Had a similar thing on a telstar once which was the battery even though the lights and reds still came on just wasnt enough power to crank??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/303139-help/#findComment-5025132
Share on other sites
KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

See my thread re starter problems but if its cranking but slowly then it won't be that.

Try a jump start from another car to get you going.

Starter on the way out will draw excessive current ...so you need to test the battery condition, alternator output and starter draw - so that probably means a visit to an auto electrician.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/303139-help/#findComment-5025175
Share on other sites
gebba54 Collaborator

gebba54

Posted
  • Author
Posted
See my thread re starter problems but if its cranking but slowly then it won't be that.

Try a jump start from another car to get you going.

Starter on the way out will draw excessive current ...so you need to test the battery condition, alternator output and starter draw - so that probably means a visit to an auto electrician.

Thanks Bob, went out this morning and shorted it across the solenoid. turned but slowly.

Managed to give the starter a few good hits and it started, so now have to find an auto electrician in Port Macquarie that will fit a starter tomorrow

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/303139-help/#findComment-5025584
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • funkymonkey
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
×
×
  • Create New...