Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm currently trying to get more info on models of Stageas, I think a few ppl in Oz will be interested since compliance is now available.

Can you confirm the models in W34 and their specs?

Thnx

Ok... you asked for it!!!:cheers:

1996 - 2001 Nissan Stagea (Model/grade followed by the build period)

2.0 20G 96/09~01/09

2.0 20X 97/11~01/09

2.0 20RS 00/06~01/09

2.0 20RS NAVI Edition 00/06~01/09

2.5 25G 96/09~98/07

2.5 25RS 97/08~01/09

2.5 25X 96/09~01/09

2.5 25G FOUR 96/09~98/07

2.5 25RS NAVI Edition 00/06~01/09

2.5 Type-B 00/06~01/09

2.5 25RS Prime Edition 98/08~01/09

2.5 25RS FOUR 97/11~01/09

2.5 25X FOUR 96/09~01/09

2.5 RS FOUR 96/09~98/07

2.5 25t RS FOUR 97/08~98/07

2.5 25t RS V 98/08~01/09

2.5 25RS FOUR NAVI Edition 00/06~01/09

2.5 25RS FOUR Prime Edition 98/08~01/09

2.5 25t RS FOUR V 97/08~01/09

2.5 RS FOUR V 96/09~98/07

2.5 25t RS V Prime Edition 98/08~01/09

2.5 25t X FOUR 97/08~01/09

2.5 25t RS FOUR S 98/08~01/09

2.5 25t RS FOUR V Prime Edition 98/08~01/09

2.6 Autech Version 260RS 97/10~01/09

2.6 Autech Version 260RS (with Rear Spoiler)

Key:

2.0 20G and 20X = RB20E (130ps single cam base model)

2.0 20RS = RB20DE (155ps "sporty" base model... worth a look for a cheap wagon)

2.5 RS and 25RS = RB25DE (200ps... nice...)

2.5 25t = RB25DET (Neo 280ps... probably the one you'll see most)

The other models don't need any more explanation I assume. All the rest are various 2WD and 4WD RB25DE and RB25DET combinations with different trim levels. All models came only in AT except the Autech Versions and the 2.5 25t RS FOUR S and the 2.5 Type-B wich was available with both AT and MT transmissions.

You are Champ!!! :)

Thanks ... any Photos???

or do they have Stagea Club in japan? web site perhaps??;)

cheers

Joe

You want linkage too??? :) ok...

Check out the WGNC34 Stagea History...

**Note the Series 1 WGNC34 was produced from 3/10/1996, and the Series 2 from the 31/8/1998. The Series 1 had the lower power out put from all engines, in paticular the RB25DET with 235ps. The Series 2 upped the power of the RB25DET (with help from NEO-6) to 280ps... the post August '98 models are the pick of the bunch obviously.

Rezz, you wouldn't happen to know if Nissan did some kind of Limited edition stagea available in Bayside Blue? I've seen one in my local area a couple of times. It's a stagea, it looks completely standard and its definitely bayside blue. doesn't look like a respray either...(not that I can tell from just driving past)

Mmmm, Bayside Blue...

You mean like this, Dave? colorblue.jpg

Its Bayside Blue #TV2... off of that link I posted above. All those colors represented are factory.... limited edition I don't know.

I've never seen one in Bayside Blue personally though.

cheers Rezz, sounds like the 25t RS FOUR post 98 is the winner, or a 260rs if you've got too much money :D

Could you tell us more about the manual versions:

2.5 25t RS FOUR S 98/08 - 01/09

2.5 Type-B 00/06 - 01/09

Whats the difference apart from build dates? What do the fully optioned ones go for?

Could you tell us more about the manual versions:

2.5 25t RS FOUR S     98/08 - 01/09  

2.5 Type-B                  00/06 - 01/09

Whats the difference apart from build dates? What do the fully optioned ones go for?

The 25t RS FOUR S has:

17" rims with 215/50 rubber standard, the NEO Straight 6 engine, optional twin sunroofs, rear foglamps, and comes in Red, Dark blue, Yellow, Black, Green Pearl, and Silver. Went new for 3,260,000 yen.

The Type-B has:

None of the above, except it has 16" rims with 205/55 rubber and a non-NEO 6 RB25DET (same power as the NEO though... strangely quoted as 280ps). It's also strange to point out that the Type B doesn't seem to have a sound system available for it, not even a radio. At first I thought it might be like an "N1" version, but I think this might be a mistake. It's strange because all this info is taken direct from Nissan Color catalogues. Went new for 3,040,000 yen.

This fully optioned one...

D098008654L.JPG

...is going for 1,880,000 yen from a dealer. It's aaaaaall good.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...