Jump to content
SAU Community

Mufflers

KezR33

By KezR33,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

KezR33 Veteran

KezR33

Posted
Posted

Been having a discussion on supraforums about whether or not the end muffler has any major effect on the sound a car puts out. Obviously the difference between a 1" pee shooter and a 5" cannon will be different, but if you had two of the same car, with the same set up all the way back to the rear muffler would two different cannons make a large difference to the noise? I figure a cannon is a cannon and brands will only change the note slightly.

Anyway, the reason I'm bring this here is because I currently have a Varex muffler on my car, but my car is quiet enough not to need it in the first place. A mate of mine wants to buy it off me, so I told him to buy me a replacement and I'll give it to him for free.

IF there is a difference, can anyone recommend me a decent muffler only (not interested in a catback, already have a custom system) to replace mine with? I asked on the Supra forums but compared to SAU they're utterly dead.

Thanks for any input guys, and sorry for bringing another exhuast thread in here. :huh:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/303709-mufflers/
Share on other sites
mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted

the shape and size of the muffler plays a big part on how it sounds. if you get 2 cannons roughly the same size then they will more than likely sound very similar. but if you get a cannon and compare it with a big oval muffler then the sound will be totally different as the oval mufflers have a lot more packing in them and generally make the car quieter and generally give a less raspy sound.

a perfect example is some of the lancers etc you see getting around. they have cannons on them and often sound like a rotary once they floor it. yet if you see one with an oval muffler on the rear they just sound a bit deeper and louder than normal and don't usually sound like arse.

as for cannons being cannons, as i said to start with, size comes into it as a bigger bodied cannon will be quieter than a smaller bodied cannon with the same pipe though the centre. this is because they have more packing in them to soak up the sound. also better quality cannons will generally be quieter as well for the same size body simply because they put more packing in them and better quality packing.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/303709-mufflers/#findComment-5032141
Share on other sites
KezR33 Veteran

KezR33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the info mate.

I actually wrote out a rather long and indepth reply then got some error when I tried to post it and lost it.

I was mainly asking if different materials have an effect, like titanium, and what kind of effect.

Also, what would recommend for me. I want to keep my racey, high-pitched note, or even improve it.

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/303709-mufflers/#findComment-5034847
Share on other sites
scathing Grand Master

scathing

Posted
Posted
I was mainly asking if different materials have an effect, like titanium, and what kind of effect.

It will. Different materials will have different tones. I'm not sure how much volume itself will be affected.

Mild steel tends to have a deeper tone than stainless. Titanium exhausts tend to be very thin-walled, which makes them a bit tinnier as well.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/303709-mufflers/#findComment-5035451
Share on other sites
mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted

yeah the same goes for stainless. it is usually slightly thinner than mild steel as well, so gives a slightly different note. however for the actual muffler itself this effect is lessened compared to the piping as there is the muffler packing to reduce the difference.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/303709-mufflers/#findComment-5035798
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • PranK
      The Evolution Of "night Fury"

      By PranK · Posted

      Thats too fricken cool.
    • PranK
      Beers and skylines Fatz style

      By PranK · Posted

      That R31 was so cool. Only did Orange Park once. Scared the hell out of me.
    • GoHashiriya
      Volk TE37SL 9.5J +22 / 10J +20

      By GoHashiriya · Posted

      Selling my TE37SLs since I've switched to smaller wheels.  They're for sale in Japan but it's pretty simple to send them overseas; USA excluded, since JPPost isn't sending there at the moment. Specs Front: 18x9.5j +22 5x114 Rear: 18x10j +20 5x114 Price: 320,000 JPY/ 3,285 AUD (current FX rate) Condition: a few scratches here and there, no bends, distortions or cracks.  Tires will not be included for international buyers, I'll get them dismounted before shipping. They're currently listed on yahoo auction and will be shipped in Japan with the tires if they sell here. Shipping costs to Aus: EMS (1-2 weeks): AUD 1,175 (current FX rate) Sea (2 months): AUD 460  (current FX rate)
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      The alloy coolant reservoir has a sight glass, so as long as I can see coolant in the sight glass it's GTG, as for PS, it isn't anything catastrophic if it gets low, and as it hasn't lost a drop since I have owned the car I cannot see it being an issue, even after putting the "big block" 2.5 in....LOL The only time it gets slightly messy is at oil changes, as the oil filter sits above the frame, and I need to use a plastic bottle with its bottom cut off to catch the flow when loosening the filter
    • Duncan
      Single Turbo Conversion On R32 GTR.

      By Duncan · Posted

      Good on you for taking on the job, but it is a big one. Even if you have bolt on manifold and turbo, you will need: Post throttle pressure source to boost controller to wastegate (and FPR, and ECU/MAP sensor) Pre throttle pressure source to top of BOV(s) Oil feed - you can take that from the standard port in the middle of the block Oil return to block under the turbo - this is much trickier than it seems to route a decent/wide pipe past the manifold. You really can't use rubber hose because it is way too hot there, and also the oil out of the turbo core is a bit frothy so it needs to have a decent diameter Water feed - you can take that from the standard port in the rear of the block. Water return - mine runs to a T into the heater box return, just make sure you don't create a high point making bleeding hard. All of those lines should use 200 series style teflon braided hose with heat shielding because everything needs to be routed past the manifold. Also a turbo beanie is a really good idea to minimise the chance of the car catching fire (under bonnet lining in particular) You also need to decide a cam cover breathing solution as well, will you vent externally via a catch can (probably illegal) or return to the intake (plumbing required and can oil up everything over time) Keep in mind the intake and exhaust piping in the engine bay will be custom so you either need to be able to fab ally and steel or have someone you can get a car that isn't running to. Get the wideband fitting welded into the dump pipe at the same time. Also, just my opinion, a screamer pipe attracts attention and doesn't add power, I'd plumb it back if you want to be allowed to keep the car on the road. BTW do you know anything about how healthy the motor is, and what power you are targeting? Doubling or tripling the factory power on an unknown motor is a little risky. Also fuel system will need some attention (pumps, high current hanger, direct power and earth feed, injectors etc)
×
×
  • Create New...