Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

every1 is telling me to use the standard reg, how good is it? better then a adjustable one? I will list all my mods and can sum1 tell me if im wasting my time with a adjustble one?

i have a rb25det series 2 engine, trans and standard s2 comp.

turbo bak 3inch (i think) hi flow cat

front mount

bigger fuel pump ( don't no wat size)

fuel reg?

and duel stage boost controler stock psi on low and hi is 11psi

I got a price for a new fuel reg from nissan it was bout $230 new

every1 is telling me to use the standard reg, how good is it? better then a adjustable one? I will list all my mods and can sum1 tell me if im wasting my time with a adjustble one?

i have a rb25det series 2 engine, trans and standard s2 comp.

turbo bak 3inch (i think) hi flow cat

front mount

bigger fuel pump ( don't no wat size)

fuel reg?

and duel stage boost controler stock psi on low and hi is 11psi

I got a price for a new fuel reg from nissan it was bout $230 new

Absolute waste of time getting a FPR for those mods. I dont know whether I would say "better" than an adjustable one. But it will do the job fine. You wont be maxing out your injectors on 11psi with those mods. And just for your benefit "You are wasting your time with an adjustable FPR" :rolleyes:

Save that $200 or whatever it is and put it towards saving for an ecu

I've already told you, twice infact

The factory one is fine for just about every application sub 450rwkw.
If you purchase the correct injector size for the application, the factory Fuel Reg is good for over 400rwkw.

I've made 370rwkw - and i can think of another 20-30 odd people who've made more than that with the factory fuel reg.

So honestly - not sure what you are trying to achieve here.

The factory fuel reg is TOTALLY fine.

my stock fuel reg has proved reliable up to 350rwkw. And people have pushed them well past that.

dont get a new one, pick one up second hand. (FS thread, ebay or wrecker etc)

I wouldnt bother with a upgarde Reg unless 400Kw + and or e85 is on the cards

your car already has a factory fuel regulator fitted.

Why do you persist in getting another?

And it might help if your posts are more coherent. This is a message forum, not a sms chat.

I've already told you, twice infact

So honestly - not sure what you are trying to achieve here.

The factory fuel reg is TOTALLY fine.

listen to this mans fingers...they are very smart and they type the truth.

his brain however is totally mad and should not be taken seriously.

is your stock one broken?

there is NO benefit getting one untill massive power figures are on the cards... and especially with the stock turbo!

the turbo cant even flow enough to need more fuel ffs

it all depends on the condition of the stocker one. if its working fine then keep using. personally, i killed 3 standard regs in under 5000km's and gave up on them, aftermarket was cheaper than a new genuine so i bought a tomei reg. true story

the car never came with the stock 1!

i have adjusted my fuel reg to 43psi with the vac line disconnected!!

ok you have two problems here.

1. You never told us you had an aftermarket one installed already.

2. You should NEVER disconnect the vac line from a FPR.

ok you have two problems here.

1. You never told us you had an aftermarket one installed already.

2. You should NEVER disconnect the vac line from a FPR.

:thumbsup:

What?

Should set adjustable regs with the vac line disconnected so you can get the fuel pressure at 0psi manifold pressure correct. If you set it with the vac line connected you will end up with fuel pressure too high at 0Psi manifold pressure, it'll be like 55psi or so.

ok you have two problems here.

1. You never told us you had an aftermarket one installed already.

2. You should NEVER disconnect the vac line from a FPR.

He told us in his other thread about ... pretty much the same thing :thumbsup:

i was told,, You set the pressure with the vacuum line removed to 3 bar or 43psi. When you reattach the vacuum line, it should dip down so that its 3 bar minus manifold vacuum. Mine sits around 2.65bar at 500mmHG with an aeromotive FPR and an RB26 @ 950rpm idle.

that was from WINSTONUSMC

so thats wat i have done?? and with the vac line connected it sits at bout 26-27 psi

and with it off its abit over 43psi

and JONNOHR31 said, 25-30kpa is around 4-5psi, i doubt the car would even run with that little pressure. as said 3 bar or 43psi is what it should be. if the stocker works put it back in, only reason to go aftermarket is if you break standard ones, as well

if i have an adjustable FPR, but stock injectors... can i run more boost by raising the pressure in the fuel rail?

only asking as i got the FPR rediculously cheap, but can't afford new injectors atm

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...