Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all , someone I know has the 1.06 non gated turbine housing on a VL with an RB26 in it . He'd like to know what difference it would make having the mid sized or 0.82 A/R housing instead .

I believe ATM it makes full boost (~ 22) at a tad over 5000 revs and he would like that to ideally be 1000 lower .

Anyone been there with both these turbine housings on a GT3582R and an RB26 ?

Cheers A .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/303983-106-vs-082-gt35-on-rb26/
Share on other sites

There is something wrong if he makes only 22psi at just over 5000rpm.

Noel's 33 (RB25DET) makes 26psi at 3800-4000 and 400rpm later on the 1.06.

Tuning, cam timing, the rest of the setup, will all determine how efficiently it will run.

I'm no turbo expert but why the hell ppl go for the largest turbine Garrett has to offer if they dont intend on using the turbo to its absolute limit?!?

The way i see it is that u choose the a/r of the turbine housing in relation to what average power u intend to make so say if the 1.06 puts the turbo in the 600hp range and u only want 550hp then go for the smaller back end with the advantage of improved response

Which brings me to a question....The hp rating garrett state on their site, is this when using the largest 1.06 housing?

So i guess it might be a question of if your mate wouldn't mind loosing some power if any at all to get improved response because i'm sure there will be noticeable difference between the 1.06 and the .82

I'm no turbo expert but why the hell ppl go for the largest turbine Garrett has to offer if they dont intend on using the turbo to its absolute limit?!?

The way i see it is that u choose the a/r of the turbine housing in relation to what average power u intend to make so say if the 1.06 puts the turbo in the 600hp range and u only want 550hp then go for the smaller back end with the advantage of improved response

Which brings me to a question....The hp rating garrett state on their site, is this when using the largest 1.06 housing?

So i guess it might be a question of if your mate wouldn't mind loosing some power if any at all to get improved response because i'm sure there will be noticeable difference between the 1.06 and the .82

You are almost right.

All of the GT3582's are rated to the same hp. The compressor determines air flow = determines hp output.

The turbine's are all the same size and the blade angles are all the same so there is no differences there.

The A/R of the turbine only changes shaft speed vs exhaust flow.

They rate their turbos based on the compressor maps which has nothing to do with turbine size. However, if you pick the smallest ratio, you will have a hard time getting it to flow the numbers later in the rev range because it moves out of its efficiency range.

eg. They will all flow exactly the same air from the compressor at a shaft speed of 120,000 rpm. The A/R or the turbine housing determines when the shaft speed will get to that point.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok thanks..that was my second question if i can somehow bypass this even with Nistune(that is all i have right now...aparat from stock ECU. So with some aftemarket it can by "bypassed" or make it work?  I know there is Link or Haltech (mainly used). We have ECUmaster here so i will gather some info about it.
    • Yes. You will need to get the original boost sensor and wire it in. That is.... if you plan to use a stock ECU - even a Nistuned ECU. The Nissan ECU will not operate correctly without it connected. And yes, it will do annoying stuff like you are experiencing. You will almost certainly be better off with some aftermarket ECU, than trying to hunt down rare sensors.
    • Ok so ABS/TCS is "not" the problem. Yeah i know now about the ABS with Nistune(i told that to the Nistune guy) but iam not 100% why or why i dont have ABS. ABS cube is in the engine (always has been) but i had braked couple of times rly hard and brakes just locked and scream. Does all Skylines have ABS cube? That boost sensor https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367633-wtb-r34-gtt-turbo-pressure-sensor-pics-inside/ Is this it? I need to ask but i have a picture of engine bay and i do not see that (100% is not in that place) If i do not have this the car can do what mine is?(cutting around 4000 rpm) Here is the pic of my engine bay(only one i have) BUT i think i dont have that cuz loom was used from my RB20DE NEO and i know (obviously) that it does not have boost control or any wire to that...) so maybe that is the problem? (i dont know for 100% if that car where the engine is from had that)...but i dont have the loom from that
    • I'm with you here. It's either loom has an issue, OR, injectors are not functioning properly. It could even be they're just constantly dribbling, hence the wet, but not firing.
    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
×
×
  • Create New...