Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Auto Skyline with 10-11psi, 3' cat back and pod = 136 rwkw. Just got it dyno recently and haven't had any problem boosting to 10 psi.

I don't think it is the auto box you have to worry about just yet, but more you turbo because of the ceramic thingy. I think it depends on the condition of your turbo, not long ago I read another thread that some guy blow up his turbo and he was running the same boost as everyone else here.

If you search this forum (or SDU's for that matter) you'll find quite a few threads on how much boost to run on an R33 turbo, about 12psi seems to be as high as you wanna go is the general concensious (sp?) I think. Some turbos simply last thou even at 18psi plus, where as I've seen some fail at 12psi... back pressure, heat, clogged oil or water lines, theres a few factors involved.

As for setting the timing, on an R32 and possibly the (series one) R33 theres a little loop of black wire which goes into the ignition amp, this is for coil/cyl 1 and some timing lights will work off that, but its not very accurate. Removing your centre cover to get access to the coils, and then lifting coil 1 is the better way. You just put a short HT lead between the coil and spark plug and use a timing light off that. Much more accurate. Factory timing should be about 15 degrees BTDC.

My first (R32) Skyline wouldn't go past this without detonating, my second R32 Skyline would run 20 degrees even at 1.1 bar without issue. What my R33 is running I have no idea as my timing light packed a sad I just turned the CAS slightly counter clockwise and listened carefully for any pinging... I'll check it properly later but the quick and nasty way is advance till you hear it ping then back it off slightly.

Btw, remember to keep the coil grounded when checking the timing when using the HT lead. You will also need to unplug the TPS definately in an auto, unsure with a manual, but I think thats still the case.

My auto runs well at 180rwkw (a bit of a disapointing fugure)

I run 13 PSI, a PFC, FMIC, 3" exhaust and rising rate reg. My injectors are now at 70% (so i have plenty of room to increase power)

I am hoping a HKS2530 turbo will get me a lot closer to 250rwkw. I will also include a trans cooler and an electronic line pressure switch to make for crisp shifts and a cooler trans.

such low numbers for those mods ... 136rwkw ... i've seen manuals get 180rwkw ...

think you got something mixed up, dont think ne r33gtst with cat back and pod filter at 10psi has 180 kw at the wheels

more like 150-160 max

dont forget that you will always have less power through stall converters compared to clutchs for manuals.

eg your average 160rwKW should be 175 through a manual trans.

i am running 9 PSI on mine with 170rwKW. running rich as well as i have stock ECU.

auto, but mind you. SHE is a bullet

Well to give you an idea hippy, the dyno I went on my car made 136 rwkw, but I saw an R34 GTT (manual) stock on the same dyno and made 115 rwkw.

Then another R34 GTT went on with exhaust only I think and made 125 rwkw.

So I can't be too disappointed with my figure.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for doing that Duncan! Makes you a good person in my books. We don't get kangaroos or wombats here. But we have bats and it's similar. AFAIK it's often the mums with a baby attached that get hit because they drop lower when starting from a tree. If you hit an animal, check on it. https://www.ifaw.org/au/resources/wildlife-rescue-app An app to get the closest wildlife rescue contact.
    • My dream is also to have a proper hoist, but I don't think it will ever happen. My quickjack is probably as close as I'll ever get, it really is very good though. 
    • Yeah we keep on in the dailies, it is pretty poor how many animals get hit and the driver leaves without checking....have saved a couple of little ones over the years. Bit of a gruesome job though, pouches generally need to be cut open because they are so tight and often the joey doesn't realise mum is gone so they are still locked onto the teat. I checked the modules in front of the DS wheel where an oil cooler should go.... There is the radar unit - that can go for race use) One of the 2 HX water pumps, the silver cylinder. That needs to be kept but might be able to be relocated But the bad news, the big computer mounted vertically in front of the wheel (blocking any potential air exit) is the electric steering computer. That is required until/unless i do a hydraulic steering conversion, and in CAD based modern car design it is not like I can just pop a big unit like that somewhere else (plus the loom would be too short anywhere else too). So, the passenger side is OK to clear out (just use a smaller washer reservoir, potentially elsewhere), but the DS no beuno
    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
    • BTW I measured the jack I have, it is 70mm at the saddle but you only have about 700 until it returns to 150mm high at the cylinder so it is good but no magic bullet.
×
×
  • Create New...