Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

Bought my 32 gtst a month or so ago and my rear left koni shock has blown. so im looking to get some coilovers as a replacement/upgrade from the koni shocks and springs. My car is primarily used as a drift car and to go up in the mountains... Its NOT a daily.

I was originally just going to get some second hand tein hr's for around $700... however they have been on a track car, and are old, and have no history, spares, tools, etc. and im not a close friend to this guy, so i dont know there condition.

So to play it safe, ive been looking into getting some brand new coilovers. The more expensive option obviously, but im sure more worth while.

So far im looking at these Teins...

Tein Super Streets with pillow ball upper (height adjustable, damper adjustable, camber adjustable, steel construction, etc.)

or

Tein Type Flex (more height adjustable, damper adjustable, camber adjustable, teflon and anodized so they wont rust) $500 more than the streets

or

Tein Super drifts (roughly the same specs as the flex's, but more aggresive i think) $600 more than the streets

My questions are...

Would it be worth me spending the extra $500-600 on the better coilovers? main reason being they have much more rust prevention, more adjustable, and are more aggressive.

What is the main differences between the Type Flex's and the Super Drifts? it seems that the flex are more all rounders, and the super drifts are more aggressive coilover.

Should i expect these coilovers to last a LONG time?

I just want to get some opinions and answers...Any other info would be good tho...

I havnt looked at much else but am open to some other options provided theyre not chinese shit!

thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/304094-r32-coilovers/
Share on other sites

Hey mate,

Pop by TopPerformance in Vermont, they can rebuild and revalve your Koni's to suit any rate you want.

Choose come custom springs, Brown springs in thomastown will do a custom set of 4 for 260.

That would give you a decent setup, and would re-use what you have.

I have type flex, they are decent, But I had Koni's in my datto and they felt "nicer".

I assume you have yellows in the car?

You won't get coilover camber adjustment in a Double Wishbone car, this is only on MacPherson strut car, your front and rear camber is adjusted by your Upper Control arms.

-Ryan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/304094-r32-coilovers/#findComment-5038317
Share on other sites

do they have to be tein? why do all skyliners think they have to use tein... look into other brands, hsd, n1 by isc, jic's heaps of brands tein aint the ducks nuts, also u'll need to at least get rear camber arms as skyline coilovers do not come with camber tops as rb_ryan mentioned. go for a 8 fr 6 re spring ratio.

i run the N1 coilovers 8-6 spring rate, very nice unit with base height dampening etcc.. and there cheaper then tein and before you say there Chinese do ya research.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/304094-r32-coilovers/#findComment-5038456
Share on other sites

do they have to be tein? why do all skyliners think they have to use tein... look into other brands, hsd, n1 by isc, jic's heaps of brands tein aint the ducks nuts, also u'll need to at least get rear camber arms as skyline coilovers do not come with camber tops as rb_ryan mentioned. go for a 8 fr 6 re spring ratio.

i run the N1 coilovers 8-6 spring rate, very nice unit with base height dampening etcc.. and there cheaper then tein and before you say there Chinese do ya research.

Why do you need base height and damper adjustment?

Research would suggest all the brands you suggested are average :P

Teins might be better.

Koni's are at least easily rebuildable, working with what you have could prove to be the cheapest way to go, and easiest to rebuild in future, Koni's are well supported, not sure about other newer brands...

Bilsteins are far better in regards to reliability and consistency.

Ohlins, Sachs, Pensche, MCA,and maybe KW are another step up.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/304094-r32-coilovers/#findComment-5038501
Share on other sites

just fyi none of those coilovers have camber adjustment as it is seperate arm on r32 skylines as oppose to dirty s13's :)

definitely wouldn't go the super streets the spring rates on them are pretty soft for a primarily drift car probably would say the same about tien flex's

my greddy type s have 8kg front/6kg rear spring rates and they are just bearable on the streets so if it's purely a drift car/mountain runs try and get something like that or higher spring rates again

and also get aftermarket sway bars they will be your best friend for drifting

Edited by mystery_kid
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/304094-r32-coilovers/#findComment-5039456
Share on other sites

just fyi none of those coilovers have camber adjustment as it is seperate arm on r32 skylines as oppose to dirty s13's :)

definitely wouldn't go the super streets the spring rates on them are pretty soft for a primarily drift car probably would say the same about tien flex's

my greddy type s have 8kg front/6kg rear spring rates and they are just bearable on the streets so if it's purely a drift car/mountain runs try and get something like that or higher spring rates again

and also get aftermarket sway bars they will be your best friend for drifting

those rates and higher would be too stiff for vic mountains IMO. 27/24mm swaybars with 6/5 springs would be fine for drift IMO.

Have seen R32 drivers do fine without bars with soft coils in a 32, but i feel that swaybars would be worthwhile.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/304094-r32-coilovers/#findComment-5039468
Share on other sites

if it's just going to mostly be a track car you'd pretty much just go for as hard as you can get

Why?

Wouldn't you want a full package that works well?

You could get a custom stupid rate set of springs made, but thrown in with nothing else done they will make the car a slow bucket of shit to drive.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/304094-r32-coilovers/#findComment-5039542
Share on other sites

For the money i think you will be hard pressed to beat the Tein Super Streets. Been in plenty of cars running them and they are nice things. I used to run off the shelf Bilsteins and frankly they need to be valved by someone that knows what they are doing to be as good as the Super Streets.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/304094-r32-coilovers/#findComment-5039565
Share on other sites

Why?

Wouldn't you want a full package that works well?

You could get a custom stupid rate set of springs made, but thrown in with nothing else done they will make the car a slow bucket of shit to drive.

he said it's going to be a drift car... he doesn't care about driving his gf to the shopping center

and i was also the first one in this thread to mention sway bars..

there is a bit too much throught going into this especially for primarily a track drift car imo

you want hard suspension basically.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/304094-r32-coilovers/#findComment-5039642
Share on other sites

do they have to be tein? why do all skyliners think they have to use tein... look into other brands, hsd, n1 by isc, jic's heaps of brands tein aint the ducks nuts, also u'll need to at least get rear camber arms as skyline coilovers do not come with camber tops as rb_ryan mentioned. go for a 8 fr 6 re spring ratio.

i run the N1 coilovers 8-6 spring rate, very nice unit with base height dampening etcc.. and there cheaper then tein and before you say there Chinese do ya research.

Like i said, im open to other options, these are just the few ive looked at. but will look for some more now...

just fyi none of those coilovers have camber adjustment as it is seperate arm on r32 skylines as oppose to dirty s13's :laugh:

definitely wouldn't go the super streets the spring rates on them are pretty soft for a primarily drift car probably would say the same about tien flex's

my greddy type s have 8kg front/6kg rear spring rates and they are just bearable on the streets so if it's purely a drift car/mountain runs try and get something like that or higher spring rates again

and also get aftermarket sway bars they will be your best friend for drifting

Sway bars will come after coils...

From what ive heard 8kg front/6kg rear is the way to go... but i dont want to go too hard. I'm unsure what spring rates are in the Koni's but they are too stiff for mountain driving, the car just bounces all over the place and looses traction and cant get power down(in a bad way).

yer i suppose

depends if he's leaning towards more track than mountain

if it's just going to mostly be a track car you'd pretty much just go for as hard as you can get

Like i said... its used for both.. I want something that is stiff enough for drift and will also give me alot more traction in the mountains than these koni's.

Are we all agreeing on 8kg front and 6kg rear for the spring rates???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/304094-r32-coilovers/#findComment-5039906
Share on other sites

No, 8/6 is too stiff. Been there, done that.

i'd be looking at around 6-7 front and 4-5 rear max. The higher rates would work ok with semis on a track. The lower rates are more appropriate for hills driving. it's a compromise.

Get some sway bars sooner rather than later.

Just a comment on the current setup. Make sure you don't have the rebound adjustment on the konis too high. It makes the car act like it has more spring and may contribute to your lack of rear traction. Konis typically have a bit over 2.5 turns of rebound adjustment. If you go past 2 turns the rebound goes through the roof. You want it somewhere between 1-2 turns.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/304094-r32-coilovers/#findComment-5040120
Share on other sites

No, 8/6 is too stiff. Been there, done that.

i'd be looking at around 6-7 front and 4-5 rear max. The higher rates would work ok with semis on a track. The lower rates are more appropriate for hills driving. it's a compromise.

Get some sway bars sooner rather than later.

Just a comment on the current setup. Make sure you don't have the rebound adjustment on the konis too high. It makes the car act like it has more spring and may contribute to your lack of rear traction. Konis typically have a bit over 2.5 turns of rebound adjustment. If you go past 2 turns the rebound goes through the roof. You want it somewhere between 1-2 turns.

Ive had ppl say 7/5 is too soft tho.... i suppose tho if i get 7/5 and get phat sways itll be fine for drifting.. and 7/5 will be better in the hills too..

Anyone in melbourne got a 32 with these spring rates(7/5) or (8/6)???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/304094-r32-coilovers/#findComment-5040389
Share on other sites

Good discussion. I have the Tein SD's with spring rates of 7/5kg and 24/22mm swaybars. I bought them new and have had them for about 18 months. The car is still a daily but i attend as many Winton drift meets as my budget permits. If i had gone softer springs i would have run thicker swaybars.

Here's a video of the setup. (White 32 with black gtr bonnet)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/304094-r32-coilovers/#findComment-5041215
Share on other sites

Good discussion. I have the Tein SD's with spring rates of 7/5kg and 24/22mm swaybars. I bought them new and have had them for about 18 months. The car is still a daily but i attend as many Winton drift meets as my budget permits. If i had gone softer springs i would have run thicker swaybars.

Here's a video of the setup. (White 32 with black gtr bonnet)

yeh looks alright.. but you can see it body roll a little bit.. not too bad tho

how does it go in the hills with those spring rates???

and how are the SD's???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/304094-r32-coilovers/#findComment-5041598
Share on other sites

yeh looks alright.. but you can see it body roll a little bit.. not too bad tho

how does it go in the hills with those spring rates???

and how are the SD's???

I have the front swaybar on soft and run the front damper pretty soft but that just suits my driving style. You could run thicker sway bars but i think they would be overkill with 7/5 kg springs. At the end of the day harder equals slower. The SD's are a bit rough for daily driving, but i don't mind/notice, as they come into their own at the track and they're awesome through the twisties. If you're looking at getting the SD's look into getting them from Japan as a $400-600 saving can be had.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/304094-r32-coilovers/#findComment-5043319
Share on other sites

I have the front swaybar on soft and run the front damper pretty soft but that just suits my driving style. You could run thicker sway bars but i think they would be overkill with 7/5 kg springs. At the end of the day harder equals slower. The SD's are a bit rough for daily driving, but i don't mind/notice, as they come into their own at the track and they're awesome through the twisties. If you're looking at getting the SD's look into getting them from Japan as a $400-600 saving can be had.

hmmm... so youve got 7/5kg SD's with 24m sways... id probs run something like that or possibly 8/6 with the 24mm sways would be abit more suited to my car because its primarily drift, i dont drive in the hills too often.

how much did a set of SD's cost in Aus???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/304094-r32-coilovers/#findComment-5043394
Share on other sites

Ive had ppl say 7/5 is too soft tho.... i suppose tho if i get 7/5 and get phat sways itll be fine for drifting.. and 7/5 will be better in the hills too..

Anyone in melbourne got a 32 with these spring rates(7/5) or (8/6)???

Pretty sure my flex are 6/5, I wouldnt go stiffer for hills, welcome to come for a spin(guessing that was your next Q with your melbourne mention). Sways are a good idea. 27f, 24r selbys would match.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/304094-r32-coilovers/#findComment-5043565
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...