Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

got a r34 auto. Done 3.5 inch exhaust straight through, fmic ,walbro pump,malpassi reg, air pod wich i have ran down into front bar for cooler air and I am tuning with a apexi neo witch seems to be doing o.k BUT, want to do turbo upgrade but not sure what one to go for. also want to do injectors so that will get rid of the apexi neo.

Can anyone tell me what turbo will suit my car BUT i dont want it to come on at 4000rpm. just something street type if you know what i mean.

Also im from melbourne so once i get the turbo and injectors done i want a good tune done on my ecu. Know anyone good?

injector size i was thinking was 550cc but if anyone has some good input im happy to take good advice.

Thanks in advance guys for you help, cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/304324-turbo-question/
Share on other sites

do some reading mate, never ending information regarding turbo choices. ull be at it for weeks.

hypergear do a good hiflow for about 1k, should look into that. only increases lag by a few hundred RPM and gives good results in power, lots of torque and about 230rwkw, plus alot stronger.

also, keep in mind changing injectors is not as simple as that, you will need to remap the ecu.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/304324-turbo-question/#findComment-5039881
Share on other sites

Can anyone tell me what turbo will suit my car BUT i dont want it to come on at 4000rpm. just something street type if you know what i mean.

That's what the dyno results thread is for...

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...yno-t55845.html

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/304324-turbo-question/#findComment-5039964
Share on other sites

Best is to high flow your stock turbo to 2530 spec. Which has same response as your stock turbo and max power at 230rwkws.

230rwkw with a relatively stock response is more attractive to me than 250-260rwkw at 4rpm.

What does that cost? and what else will i realistically need for install. Ive got a JJR split front/dump will i need to change this? I hear they are not exactly a direct bolt on?

Its a 1996 R33 Gts25t s2.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/304324-turbo-question/#findComment-5040323
Share on other sites

230rwkw with a relatively stock response is more attractive to me than 250-260rwkw at 4rpm.

What does that cost? and what else will i realistically need for install. Ive got a JJR split front/dump will i need to change this? I hear they are not exactly a direct bolt on?

Its a 1996 R33 Gts25t s2.

If you the hi flow you wont really need anything else besides recommend to upgrade your intake pipe to metal one so it doesnt fold in on higher boost and the dump should b fine a high flow.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/304324-turbo-question/#findComment-5040521
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I read this and thought "ah! I will do this scissor jack on the tow point thing!" I just use my floor/low profile/costco jack and lift the car up by the tow hook itself, then slide jack stands under. Never thought about using scissor into floor jack combo :p
    • Well, my new WMI system took much longer to finalize. I actually missed my dyno appointment last Friday and lost my 150$ deposit. I'll be going back in the next week or two.  To sum it up. I only kept the AEM tank from my old setup. I replaced the AEM pump with a higher flow/pressure ProMeth 30GPH pump. I also swapped over to a 6AN low pressure feed line to the pump from the tank. There's also a pressure switch you cannot see on the pump high pressure line.    This is feeding 6x 200CC direct port nozzles and 1x 500CC Pre Throttle body nozzle. All fittings are Swagelok, because well why not. I also have a 300PSI pressure sensor up front.    I now have my Haltech ECU controlling everything. I start my pump with a basic relay at 5PSI and deadhead it. I then PWM a 3000CC methanol Injector to control flow starting around 10psi. The pressure switch in the trunk, along with my tank level are safeties before I ever get to 10PSI, and then I use my pressure sensor upfront as a secondary safety to cut the WMI and corrections in case the injector blocks or a line ruptures.  Wish me luck on the dyno!    
    • So, I'm back with bad news. There's no jack long enough on this planet that will reach the front subframe. If by some chance there is, it would weigh 200lb's.  I purchased a long reach jack... The damn thing weighted 120lb's and was massive. Didn't even come close, was still short at least a foot. It was a pain, but I brought it back. Next I decided HA! No problem, I'll get an Extra long reach jack. Well, I couldn't lift the box... It must have weighed 160LB's and luckily there was an open box in store. I took measurement and was still nowhere close.  Sadly I've lost hope and have accepted defeat. 
    • Thanks for that tip, niZmO_Man. I think the battery is OK. It's quite a new one, but I'll check. Last time I needed a new battery, everything electronic was fine, except that there wasn't enough current to turn over the starter. I decided to order one of the partial AV system translation CDs from Car Audio Workshop in NZ. That might have some effect, or help me diagnose the date problem. 🤞
    • I suppose it was relatively stock too, the JZ motor handle most mods thrown at them without even breaking a sweat 
×
×
  • Create New...