Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi People,

As the topic states, Im looking at strengthing my diff to handle the conversion of the rb26 in it. Now the car previously was a rb25dett auto which is now a rb26dett with an r34gtt gearbox in it.

What i want to know is it worth taking it to a diff place and strengthing it or buying a new one.

Also what diff do i have in it if the car from factory was a R33 gtst 1996 s1.5 4door auto no hicas with abs(if that made a difference).

Also does anyone know good diff places in melbourne nothern suburbs such as epping,cambellfield, somerton, tullamarine, etc if people are recommending strengthing the diff???

Any help will be good.

Ray

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/304515-change-diff-or-strengthen-it/
Share on other sites

I wouldn't be worried about breaking the diff, they're bloody tough, so you'll usually break something else before that goes.

Your question should be: will my viscous LSD centre be able to put the power down to the ground?

You won't know that until you go for your first drive, and see if it spins both wheels off the line.

Hi Fellas, thanks for the reply.

Both wheels spin most of the time but ive noticed a weird knock that comes in sometimes after a bit of trashing which disappears after a bit of easy driving. I have changed the oils so what would be the best way to go, kazz lsd 2 way or should i just get this diff fixed??? and if to get it fixed anyone got any recommendation on a diff shop????

I wouldn't waste any money on the standard VLSD, and an aftermarket 2 way is usually a fair amount of coin, unless you find one second hand.

A couple of better value options are:

The R32 GTR diff. It's a mechanical (clutch type) that is a good upgrade, but you will need to find someone wrecking a GTR, because you will also need the half shafts and rear hubs (as they are a larger diameter, and your half shafts wont bolt up).

The S15 Helical LSD, out of the manual turbo. It's a mechanical Helical centre, that has awesome reviews from everyone that uses one. As they are helical, they do not wear out like "clutch types" so it's a safer bet when buying second hand. They run 6 bolt half shafts, so you will need to get them as well to make it bolt up, but you won't need to replace the rear hubs (like when upgrading to the R32 GTR diff).

I have just purchased an S15 rear diff (with half shafts) for $250, so it's a pretty cost effective upgrade. It also comes with a 3.7:1 ratio, so if you stick with that it will effectively make your gears all 10% taller. I'm going to try it with that, and see how it goes (as I find first gear too short in my car, and am also looking forward to saving some fuel by cruising at lower revs in 5th). But worst case, if I don't like it I can swap the crown wheel and pinion from my old diff back into it, and run the old 4.1:1 ratio.

Edited by Ryno

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Welcome.  800hp should be a bit of weekend fun!
    • I'm going with "Just run two gates". Fix the problem conclusively. It's the only way you'd ever truly know, right?. This is all pretty much splitting hairs. Even the extreme example where it takes two whole seconds at 100kmh or something sounds monstrously dubious. And anyway, when you're punching the throttle when you 'need' this power, you aren't at 2800rpm in the wrong gear. Test it at 5600rpm in 3rd gear, when you're traction limited punching out of a sweeper. Much difference there when you account for traction?
    • And the full R32 GTR wiring diagrams are also freely available. Hmm.... there's supposed to be an auto replace that would have linked the thread. Here it is, manually  
    • Ahh...should have been clearer ~ there's 2 ... SMJ = super multi junction (connector)...   ...this is connector 6 & 25 in above image -- body harness to engine loom (6) & body harness to main loom (25) Headlights go to front via connector 6 ; fuel gauge goes to tank sender via connector 25  ...like I say this is R33 diagrams, but at a pinch R34 won't be too far different. *IF* the two ground faults are related, this can be the only place where both wires converge (as one runs to the back, the other to the front)... ....thing is, you probably need to establish if the faults are related (unless you examine that area and find obvious chaffing on the looms there to body ground)....*IF* the fuel gauge is still broken (full needle deflection), I'd be headed for the boot, remove fuel sender wire, key on and measure the voltage there ~ it should be roughly 10volts. If that's ok, check sender to ground resistance...if this is a dead short to ground (and there's fuel in it), then sender has failed or something funky has happened to wiring in the tank. edit: ahh...rereading the thread, this is R32....above fuel sender test still valid tho'
    • I just changed the timing belt on my RB25DET NEO and wanted to get some opinions. I’ve been super cautious, did a lot of research, and took my time. I’ve driven the car, and it runs fine. After warming it up, I revved it to 8000 RPM a few times—no issues, everything held up.   After the drive, I heard a noise that I think is either the clutch or possibly a tight accessory belt. It’s not constant, just comes and goes.   I took the timing cover off to double-check everything:   Belt is on properly, Tensioner is tight, Did the 90-degree twist test—belt isn’t too tight or too loose.     What still worries me is that I noticed the belt seems to sit a little toward the front edge of the gears, especially on the idler pulley. It even looks like it’s slightly coming off the edge there. Is that normal?   My old belt (5 years old, ~3,000 miles) also showed a bit of wear on that same edge, so maybe it’s just how it sits? I’m probably overthinking this, but since it’s my first time doing this on a NEO and the engine is forged, I really don’t want to mess anything up.   Also, I’m thinking of swapping to a clear front timing cover with the glass window. Would you recommend NITO or HPI? HPI looks reputable and their covers have 2.5mm thickness, but not sure if there’s a real difference between the two.   Any advice or reassurance would be much appreciated!
×
×
  • Create New...