Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 8 months later...
has anyone found out if this is actually possible with the r33 rb25det pfc on the r32 rb20det??? I'd love to know if its true or myth!

Cheers

I have the datalogit software for RB25det which covers the following PFC's

RB20DET

RB25DET

RB251PRO

The interface and software are the same but the maps are not. So if you think you can just plug it in and away you go you would be wrong. You will need the default map to start with in a RB20DET which would be different to the Default map for a RB25DET

I may test this out soon ppls.

The RB30DET won't run on the stock RB20DET maps, I assume this is due to the head being a RB25 (bigger valves/ports etc).

From what I've heard the RB25DET ECU will run the RB30DET with no problems.

All I have to do now is try to find some one with a R33 PowerFC willing to do the test.

Does that mean it would be fine, as long as you tuned it carefully straight away?

If true, this would be great news, as the R32 Gtst PFC is still worth about $2000 new. (compared to R33 at about $1100)

Does that mean it would be fine, as long as you tuned it carefully straight away?

If true, this would be great news, as the R32 Gtst PFC is still worth about $2000 new. (compared to R33 at about $1100)

Id say you will need the default's which the RB20DET PFC comes with for it to work. There is more to a PFC than just Ign & Inj map's. If we can get a R32 PFC on a datalogit laptop and then save the default's and use them in a R33 PFC on a R32 in theory this should work. Although if you ever needed to do a PFC reset the maps would default back to R33.

Be interested to see if SK has anything to add to this thread.

I was looking on nengun and greenline they're about 1300-1400approx landed. Thats the AP engineering model (low impedence injectors only), only the ECU, no hand controller.

But if the r33 works, it makes things heaps easier, since theres more floatin around.

Does that mean it would be fine, as long as you tuned it carefully straight away?

If true, this would be great news, as the R32 Gtst PFC is still worth about $2000 new. (compared to R33 at about $1100)

If you look at the pins on the R33 ECU a few of them dont match the R32 wiring, so there is definitely a need to fiddle with wiring to get it working. If it woks, but i suspect it can be made to work, but not positive

Be interested to see if SK has anything to add to this thread.

Or in this case troy

If you look at the pins on the R33 ECU a few of them dont match the R32 wiring, so there is definitely a need to fiddle with wiring to get it working. If it woks, but i suspect it can be made to work, but not positive

I guess that means the ECU's have different looms and I would'nt fark with it.. If you blow a PFC, $2000 for the specific model would of seemed a sweet deal

I had a hang up that i wanted to use the Pro which isnt available with the R32 so looked into it.

But some things to consider,

For:

- injectors same impedence

- coil packs are interchangeable between engines

- both from the same RB family

However:

- its a big assumption to assume that things like water temp, idle control valves etc are all 0-5V or same resistances and therefore compatible

- some of the injector pins dont match up in the plugs but majority of wires do.

If an R33 owner went RB30 it would be interesting to see them have a play with a re-mappable R32 ECU in their car, if a bit of a play means you can tune the RB20 ecu to run it then i would be more confident in plugging in the $1500 Pfc into an R32 and seeing what works/how it works

hehe Series 1 R33's used a PTU to control ignition, series 1.5 and Series 2 had the PTU included in the ECU... now... RB20's don't have VVT like later model RB25's... do the maths, its not simple just plugging in a Rb25 Power FC.

However, if one was to trick the power FC into thinkiing it was running a really early model RB25DET then that should work just fine. End result... its a lot easier to find and buy an AP engineering power fc anyways.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...