Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

I thought there was a sticky on spark plugs but I can't find it, I've searched and found a few threads.

Its also an interesting debate in regard to going Copper and replacing every 10K or going Platinum/Iridium.

Any advice?

Finally, which one should I be using?

A BCPR7s/BKR7s ?

R33 GTR, standard tubo's, 1 bar boost, not driven too often if that makes a difference :D

Thanks,

Gareth

EDIT: Also is Repco a good place to buy spark plugs?

I noticed that performancelub has fairly cheap Iridium/Platinum plugs

300rwkw daily driven

i use bcpr7es @ 0.8

I'm only 250rwkw so I assume the bcpr6 might be a better choice. I'm unsure how to re-gap spark plugs so would prefer to buy the right size if possible :)

Ah bullshit you searched, i know you be telling furphies ;)

Just have a read of the Forced Induction Guide Gareth, its a sticky in Forced Induction.

It has a link to "what spark plug" or something similar, plenty of info for ya there :)

You wont need to gap the plugs. 1.0 - 1.1 willl be fine

i have been using 7's in my car all the way through, 150rwkw 185rwkw, 269rwkw, 285rwkw, 311rwkw and now 323rwkw

if you buy BCPR7ES or BCPR6ES they will both be fine..... and are already gapped @ 0,8

the BCPR7ES11 are gapped to 1.1

I would use 1 heat ranger cooler ie 7's on a stock engine with no mods and look at running 2 heat ranges cooler "8's" and smaller gap if you at pushing more boost ie about 1 bar.

Pending on condition of coils the larger gap may still work fine but due to age and condition every car is different.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ng...eri-t68157.html

Ah bullshit you searched, i know you be telling furphies :)

Just have a read of the Forced Induction Guide Gareth, its a sticky in Forced Induction.

It has a link to "what spark plug" or something similar, plenty of info for ya there :blush:

You wont need to gap the plugs. 1.0 - 1.1 willl be fine

I read the general maintenance section, a quick check of the tutorials, and a search which brought up lots of debates about copper vs iridium.

Didn't think of the forced induction sticky :P

Besides you overrate search, I was searching for "spark plug" or similar, I didn't know what terms would bring back something useful :P

I'll just use BCPR7ES (-8 gap) then...thanks for the help (or 6ES if I can't get them).

Thanks everyone!

i have been using 7's in my car all the way through, 150rwkw 185rwkw, 269rwkw, 285rwkw, 311rwkw and now 323rwkw

if you buy BCPR7ES or BCPR6ES they will both be fine..... and are already gapped @ 0,8

the BCPR7ES11 are gapped to 1.1

I think if there is no trailing dash and number (-8) then the sparkplugs are 1.1

ie. BCPR6E are 1.1 whereas BCPR6E-08 are 0.8

Ive been using BCPR6E's on my car, but ill be trying out 7's because ive noticed speckles on my sparkplugs which indicate that they are too hot.

BCPR6E are better than BCPR6ES. The 's' stands for standard tip whereas the other has a v-groove tip which they say is better.

Also, stick with coppers and change them every 10,000km.

I think if there is no trailing dash and number (-8) then the sparkplugs are 1.1

ie. BCPR6E are 1.1 whereas BCPR6E-08 are 0.8

Ive been using BCPR6E's on my car, but ill be trying out 7's because ive noticed speckles on my sparkplugs which indicate that they are too hot.

BCPR6E are better than BCPR6ES. The 's' stands for standard tip whereas the other has a v-groove tip which they say is better.

Also, stick with coppers and change them every 10,000km.

im with hamish, ive got some BCPR7ES-11 rolling around the glove box of the daily. where as the BCPR7ES with nothing noted on the end are 0.8's.

by the by i run BCPR7ES and well under 250rwkw

im with hamish, ive got some BCPR7ES-11 rolling around the glove box of the daily. where as the BCPR7ES with nothing noted on the end are 0.8's.

by the by i run BCPR7ES and well under 250rwkw

my mistake, no dash number means default 0.8

Although according to their site they say 0.9

http://www.ngk.com/results_cross.asp?pid=BCPR6E

Projected Tip, JIS Height, .035" (0.9mm) Gap

More information on V-groove sparkplugs (BCPR6E no 's' at the end)

V-Power spark plugs are a patented design by NGK to improve ignitability and reduce quenching. Ignitability is improved by the V-groove cut in the center electrode parallel to the ground electrode, this directs the spark to to the edge of the center electrode thus exposing it to more of the air/fuel mixture. Quenching is reduced in much the same manner, drawing the spark to the edge of the center and ground electrodes reduces the surface area available to quench the spark. See quenching for more info.

i use NGK BKR7E in an RB26

does anyone else use these plugs

Looking on the website i posted above, the BKR7E feature the v-groove whereas the BCPR7ES does not. There doesnt seem to be a BCPR7E on their website so it looks like if you want the v-groove you need to get the BKR7E.

This assumption is all based off the ngk.com website though.

Looking on the website i posted above, the BKR7E feature the v-groove whereas the BCPR7ES does not. There doesnt seem to be a BCPR7E on their website so it looks like if you want the v-groove you need to get the BKR7E.

This assumption is all based off the ngk.com website though.

He had some kind of racing plug in there:

http://www.ninjapower.co.uk/product_info.p...-ngk-r67018-x-1 an NGK: R6701-8

Anyway, I've put the BCPR7ES in now, it was a little challenging but its done now, thanks for the advice everyone.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...