Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Brake Master Cylinder # Bm44 Or Bm50?

adoboy666
 Share

Recommended Posts

adoboy666 Community Regular

adoboy666

Posted
Posted (edited)

hey everyone

i need to know what number is stamped on the side of an r32 gtr master cylinder, can someone please pop out to their car and check. also if you could note if ur gtr is equipped with abs or not

from what ive read the bm44 is what is on gtst and is 15/16" bore size

and the bm50 is on the gtr and is 1" bore size

i would just like someone to comfirm as on ebay they have seen people selling 15/16" bm44 master cylinders as gtr items... when from what ive read its a gtst one lol i just dont wanna get ripped off

im asking this as i upgraded my r32 gts25 (non-abs) single pot brakes to r33 gtst brakes (which people have said are the same size as r32gtr as they use the same 296mm front rotor and 297mm rear rotor)and they seem to be a lot more bias to the front brakes as they lock the fronts up on hard braking

currently on the car is the bm44 15/16" master cylinder (non-abs) that was originally used with the standard single piston brakes

Edited by adoboy666
-Jimmy- Mentor

-Jimmy-

Posted
Posted (edited)

I'm not sure if this helps you much but I just upgraded my brakes from 1 pot all round to GTSt specs which are pretty much the same as GTR however the rotors are 2mm narrower. I'm using a BM44 and it feels fine but if you end up going the BM50 let us know how it turns out :D

BTW: how much would a BM50 set you back roughly?

Edited by -Jimmy-
djr81 Grand Master

djr81

Posted
Posted
hey everyone

i need to know what number is stamped on the side of an r32 gtr master cylinder, can someone please pop out to their car and check. also if you could note if ur gtr is equipped with abs or not

from what ive read the bm44 is what is on gtst and is 15/16" bore size

and the bm50 is on the gtr and is 1" bore size

i would just like someone to comfirm as on ebay they have seen people selling 15/16" bm44 master cylinders as gtr items... when from what ive read its a gtst one lol i just dont wanna get ripped off

im asking this as i upgraded my r32 gts25 (non-abs) single pot brakes to r33 gtst brakes (which people have said are the same size as r32gtr as they use the same 296mm front rotor and 297mm rear rotor)and they seem to be a lot more bias to the front brakes as they lock the fronts up on hard braking

currently on the car is the bm44 15/16" master cylinder (non-abs) that was originally used with the standard single piston brakes

A Sumitomo caliper equiped R32 GTR (Povvo pack) will have a 1 inch bore size on the master cylinder.

A Sumitomo equipped R32 GTR (N1) with no ABS with have a 15/16 inch master cylinder, ie smaller with no ABS.

A Brembo equipped R32 GT-R with ABS has a 17/16 inch master cylinder.

A Brembo equipped R32 GTR with no ABS has a 1 inch master cylinder.

There are two different brands of master cylinder which are seemingly randomly allocated.

I can't exactly remember the BM number on the things. I can check the one I have spare at home if you are stuggling.

adoboy666 Community Regular

adoboy666

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

yeh mine brakes fine just seems a lot more front bias

thanks for the info on the master cylinder sizes

from reading more in depth have found i will need a 1" bore master cylinder from a r32 gtr...

but my problem is r32 gtr master cylinders only come in abs...

i could go the r32 gtr n1 brembo 1" master cylinder which has no abs,but it is meant for the brembo calipers

the difference between the gtr(abs) master and the gtr n1(non-abs) master cylinders from abs and non-abs is abs have 2 outlets,one for front and one for rear brakes. and the non-abs master cylinder has 3 outlets (2 for front 1 for rear)

Does anyone know if i can just use an r32 gtr abs master cylinder and T-peice the front outlet so i can hook up the 2 front lines fine??

Edited by adoboy666
djr81 Grand Master

djr81

Posted
Posted
yeh mine brakes fine just seems a lot more front bias

thanks for the info on the master cylinder sizes

from reading more in depth have found i will need a 1" bore master cylinder from a r32 gtr...

but my problem is r32 gtr master cylinders arnt non-abs or...

i could go the r32 gtr n1 brembo 1" master cylinder which has no abs,but it is meant for the brembo calipers

the difference between the gtr master cylinders from abs and non-abs is abs have 2 outlets,one for front and one for rear. and the non-abs master cylinder has 3 outlets (2 for front 1 for rear)

Does anyone know if i can just use an r32 gtr abs master cylinder and T-peice the front outlet so i can hook up the front lines fine??

Well that is all that happens when the lines get through the ABS.

  • 2 months later...
liampire Contributor

liampire

Posted
Posted (edited)

I recently had some braking issues and my master cylinder was faulty. I thought I had a full R32 GTST M-spec brake conversion on my S13 however it turned out I still had the BM33 brake master from a standard S13. I went to Master Cylinder Exchange Service Wynnum and took my friends BM50 ABS master and did an exchange for a reconditioned non ABS BM50. It cost $275 and these are superior to a genuine nissan replacement as they have the stainless steel sleeve inserted into the bore. The part is guaranteed for life and the seals for 12 months. They say that a reconditioned master will out live the life of the car. Here is some handy information.

BM50 Master (25.4mm diameter)

S15 Spec R

300zx Turbo (also uses BM57 - 26.9mm)

R32 GTST M-Spec

R32 GTR non Brembo

R33 GTST BM44 (23.8mm)

R32/33/34 Brembo model BM57

Source: http://nissans15.com/brakes.htm

Edited by liampire
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • oHBoy.
      Starter motor replacment teeth count.

      By oHBoy. · Posted

      I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • suko
      J50 clock date suddenly reset to January 1

      By suko · Posted

      The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...