Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The most likely cause is the ECU spazing out at the increased boost and doing some R&R to save the engine

I'd be very surprised if its a VCT issue especially seen as it wont be working at the RPM you have mentioned anyway

My thoughts are unhappy stock ECU or coilpacks breaking down

I'm not sure about the flat spot thing mentioned but my car does the same thing since lifting the boost up so I'm interested to see if the VCT is the cause?

But if you want to test this i would suggest just unplugging the vct at the head going for a drive (as i believe it only works when in gear, not idling) then plugging it back in and see if it makes a difference.

I think the reason they don't want you to join straight to the battery is chances are you will use the wrong gauge wire without a fuse and shit will get hot and it's just dodgy having something permanently powered when the car is off unless its a memory function for something.

VCT does not stop working when you bump the boost up.

If you have a stock ECU and increase the boost then have problems with power/engine cutting out/engine feeling doughy, then the most likely cause is R&R, built into the ECU to prevent an accidental overboost from destroying your engine. It's not a case of it being 'sensitive' to boost, the car was designed to run 7psi max, so the ECU takes a better safe then sorry approach when it calculates airflow exceeding that.

Unplug your VCT, see if it feels worse, if it does then its definently not your VCT.

It will be the ECU

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Checked with amayama and nope, the full S2 manual set is not available anymore. Unsurprising, but still disappointing as the ? on availability gave a glimmer of hope.
    • I've heard the Tomei USA head gaskets are decent if you want to o-ring the heads but otherwise not recommended.
    • The 296mm rotors are the R33 turbo brakes. The 310mm rotors are the R34 turbo brakes. The calipers are nearly the same, but not. They're the same caliper but the R34 caliper has longer legs so that it sits out far enough to go over the rotor. The pads are the same for both. When you say, "I bough tsome EBC"....did you just mean pads? Or rotors? 310mm rotors fit under 17" wheels. There may be some wheels without enough clearance though. I can't fit my fingers between the barrel of my wheel and the "corners" of my R34 calipers, but there is plenty of room behind the spokes. This is on Enkei RPF1. You can fit 324mm rotors inside a 17" wheel, but I'd be willing to bet that it would be close to impossible with the Nissan/Sumitomo caliper (using an adapter, of course), because the Sumitomo caliper is fatter than the Brembo caliper that is supposed to go on the 324mm rotors.
    • Hi. Can someone tell me what brakes(and mainly WHERE) can i buy brakes on R34 GTT? I bought some EBC which SHOULD go on my car(i have GT but it has GTT brakes) but it does not fit, Brakes are "too" small(296mm) Are 310mm be good or? I have 17 inch wheel so no "big boys" but for me driving i just need one that fits and i can get here in EU/Czech.
    • Since winter isn't that harsh anymore in Poland, i will definetely drive it 365 days a year 😉. But if the snow hits i will try it for sure and let U know. Only swap i am planning to do is of course R34 GTR front 😍.
×
×
  • Create New...