Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guys,

Number 2 injector is leaking on my L24E, probably from the hose. What's the recommended fix?

A quick search of the forum suggests that RB30 hose/tail are straight swap but there seems to be some uncertainty if RB30 are the correct impedance.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/304928-replace-leaking-injector-on-l24e/
Share on other sites

im 100% sure they work. also the CA20 items work too.

funny cos my number 2 is pissing, but im getting the whole lot replaces with 270cc hosetails for my turbo setup

Any recommendations on where to source them? In one of the old posts there was a link to www.injectorsonline.com. They seem to sell L24E injectors for about $80 - what do you reckon? Have you heard anything about this mob?

Also, I saw in an old post you had some troubles removing the oil pressure sensor. How did you go removing it and presumably replacing it? Was it a tough job?

Number 2 injector is leaking on my L24E, probably from the hose...

According to the service manual, the hose can be cut using a soldering iron, removed and a new one pushed on. 

JH

According to the service manual, the hose can be cut using a soldering iron, removed and a new one pushed on.

JH

JH, so slice it length-ways with soldering iron to get it off. Then push new hose on and then the screwed down 'rail' keeps it all together? Have you done this?

JH, so slice it length-ways with soldering iron to get it off. Then push new hose on and then the screwed down 'rail' keeps it all together? Have you done this?

Haven't done it. Just reading from the R30 service manual. It says to wet the inside of the new hose with fuel, push hose and hose socket on by hand, no clamps necessary (page EF-56). 

JH

I've seen them cut, hose slid on, with a clamp

thought I throw this in as well, (when I was researching for my turbo build) not sure if they are %100 correct though

and the RB30 (non turbo) are to small for a L24 Turbo engine.

280ZX - 180cc

L20et - 188cc

RB30 - 200cc

RB30ET - 250cc

L28ET - 265cc Low Impedance

RB20DET - 270cc

RB25DE - 270cc

VG30et - 270-280cc (turbo ones)

280ZX Turbo 280cc (turbo ones) ??? not sure about this one.

7MGE Toyota 295cc

FJ20ET - 360-370cc

RB25DET - 370cc (sidefeed) No good

RB26DETT - 440cc Low Impedance

Nigel

post-13098-1264073256_thumb.jpg

Guys,

Number 2 injector is leaking on my L24E, probably from the hose. What's the recommended fix?

A quick search of the forum suggests that RB30 hose/tail are straight swap but there seems to be some uncertainty if RB30 are the correct impedance.

Just go and buy some fuel hose from repco/autopro/supercheap and cut the old hose off and replace it with the new hose. I have done this with all my injectors as well as adding hose clamps at the injector end. No more leaks.

Wardie

Yeah, I've done the cut-with-a-soldering-iron thing before and fitted new hoses - not too hard. You can buy an injector reco kit which comes with new line filters, seals etc.

But first, you might want to double check exactly where the leaking is coming from. I've had repeated problems with the black-phenolic-bush-adaptor-mount thingys cracking, so that fuel leaks from the lower ring seal. So in my case, replacing the hoses it made no difference because they weren't the course of my problems. I have a hunch that the busted adaptors might be caused by ethanol (or some other additive) in the fuel making the seal swell and crack the phenolic.

Yeah, I've done the cut-with-a-soldering-iron thing before and fitted new hoses - not too hard. You can buy an injector reco kit which comes with new line filters, seals etc.

But first, you might want to double check exactly where the leaking is coming from. I've had repeated problems with the black-phenolic-bush-adaptor-mount thingys cracking, so that fuel leaks from the lower ring seal. So in my case, replacing the hoses it made no difference because they weren't the course of my problems. I have a hunch that the busted adaptors might be caused by ethanol (or some other additive) in the fuel making the seal swell and crack the phenolic.

best way to check if injectors are leaking is by spraying it to see if it makes a change in idle... do not over tighten your injectors as the spacing blocks will crack and are quite difficult to find

on my turbo setup im useing R31 injector holders, 10 times better design, alot stronger too.

I'm still using the MR30 injector holders on my turbo L24, MAG86, do you have some picture you can put somewhere to show me what these look like and how they fit ?

Nigel

Ha ha, easy fix. Just tightened the hose clamp at the top of the hose where it meets the rail. :)

Previous own said he'd replaced inj's 1 and 2. I guess he didn't tighten up the clamps properly.

MAG86, still interested in the R31 replacment though - just for reference.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...